Robo3d Autolevel Z Brackets

Robo3d Autolevel Z Brackets

thingiverse

Hey, this is a remake/design of http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:687502 because the dimensions were incorrect for me. I've made some improvements too. With this you can use the original nuts. Take a look at this guy for more details on this setup: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:349935. This is a work in progress as I still need to wire up the switches. There's a left and right version, as well as one with a built-in support. Some design notes: measurement; part spec. Carrage hollow nut ~12.7mm; Nut set to 12.3mm. Carrage hollow nut depth 7.5mm; Nut depth set to 7mm. Z nut 12.45mm; Nut hole set to 12.7mm. Z rod 7.75mm; Hole set to 8.6mm. Clamping hole 3.6 mm diam; 3mm bolt. Clamping nut 6.1 mm edge-edge; 3mm nut. MicroSwitch holes 1.8mm #2 wood screw. I noticed the switches activate at different heights above the bracket. Maybe I'll need to move the holes or bend the lever to compensate. Hopefully this helps. Design files included. Update(5/17/2016): No longer WIP (it works fine now). Also new picture. After wiring it up and printing a few parts, I discovered a significant z banding effect. Looking at a newer Robo3d R1+ model, they removed the lever on the microswitch. This shortens the switch travel distance reducing the difference of the trigger distances between the two sides. After removing the lever on the microswitch, the zbanding went away. I'm guessing it was caused by overcompensation or incorrect compensation from differing switch trigger height on both sides. Also this is part of my slic3r start gcode relating to autolevel: ; Slicer start G-Code G21; metric values G90; absolute positioning M82; set extruder to absolute mode M107; start with the fan off M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature]; wait for bed temperature to be reached M104 S[first_layer_temperature]; start heating extruder 1 T0; set the active extruder to 0 G28 X0 Y0 Z0; home all axes G1 Z5 F8000; lift nozzle off the bed M109 S[first_layer_temperature]; set the extruder temp and wait G28 X0 Y0 Z0; Home Z again in case there was filament on nozzle M565 Z-0.85; set Z probe offset G29; probe the bed G0 Z3; Lift nozzle before lateral movement G0 X110 Y120; Center nozzle on print area ; End of Slicer start G-Code There's some extra movements that are to my own preference, but basically: G28; home M565 Z-0.85; set Z probe offset, G29; probe the bed Print Settings Printer Brand: Robo 3D Printer: R1 ABS + PLA Model Rafts: No Supports: No Resolution: .2 Infill: 20% Notes: Printed in PLA. Supports may not be needed but I've designed a built-in ring as a removable support.

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