RifRaf 3D Carcassonne The Ferries Tiles Mini Expansion Game

thingiverse

It appears that you have provided a detailed guide on printing custom tiles for the board game "Under the Big Top." Here are some key points from your text: 1. **Printing Settings:** * Printed with a Prusa i3 MK2 in all PLA. * Base height of .200mm and layer height of .150mm. * Used a 4mm nozzle. * Printed with 4 base layers and 3 top layers, 15% cubic infill, and a concentric fill pattern for consistent layer divisions and appearance. 2. **Printing Tips:** * To avoid corner lift, printed with a 3mm brim attached to all tiles. * If the slices didn't render correctly, rotating the affected tile 90 degrees on the plate sometimes fixed the issue. * The "poor man's inlay trick" involves making the base layer one color and then changing to a different color for the next few layers, allowing the filament to flow into the cut-out area. 3. **Coloring:** * Used Prusa Color print to define layers. * For most tiles: * Base color is light green (.35-.35). * Blue is used for "C", ponds, and rivers (1.25-2.0). * Skin is used for the base of roads (2.0-2.3). * Copper is used for underlay dark field color and city floor (2.3-4.35). * Light green is used for fields (3.2-3.35). * Dark brown and copper are used for the city floor (3.35-4.35). * Pearl white, blue, and khaki are used for shields and emblems (3.65-8.15). * For Cloisters: * Same as above until 9.95. * Then, khaki is used until the end, which is red. * For Cathedrals and Abbey: * Same as above until 13.40. * Then, khaki is used until the end, which is red. 4. **Common Issues:** * Some tiles may not render correctly with the correct number of top layers. Rotating the affected tile 90 degrees on the plate and reslicing can sometimes fix this issue. 5. **Additional Tips:** * Use a concentric fill pattern on the bottom to achieve a "scattered" look similar to the original tiles. * Experiment with different color materials for enhanced textures in areas like city floors and fields. It's worth noting that the provided guide is specific to the author's printing setup and settings. Users may need to adjust these parameters according to their own 3D printer configuration and preferences.