Rick Sanchez (Rick and Morty) Mask Remix

thingiverse

UPDATE: 9/27/2017, Original mouth (remix_Mouth.stl) determined to have been corrupted upon uploading to Thingiverse. I have replaced it with remix_Mouth_2.stl. Anyone with files downloaded before 9/27 is advised to obtain the new version of the mouth before printing. This is a remix of easilyused's totally awesome Rick Sanchez mask. Be sure to check out his page (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1861871) for more info. After printing and assembling a mask with his files, I decided to combine many of the pieces and optimize them for a 220x220 bed (his being optimized for a ~200x200 printing surface). I also added small tabs on the interior of some pieces to assist in aligning them properly, which should make assembly easier and provide increased surface area for the glue joint. With this remix, the majority of the front of the mask consists of 4-5 pieces, as opposed to 11, while keeping supports to a minimum. This cleans up the look of the assembled mask by eliminating many of the seams on the face. I hollowed the tongue, and left the eyeballs and rear section of the mask unmodified. This remix includes two different options for the face, depending on the limit of your Z-axis: 1) The "FaceForehead225" file is a one-piece face and forehead that is 225mm tall. 2) The other option is using the separate "Face" and "Forehead" files included. Note: (7/2017) Added a separate eyebrow file, as per a request. Print Settings Supports: Yes Notes: I didn't print the mask that I've assembled from these particular files, but easilyused's print settings should apply: Resolution: Any Rafts: No, used 5mm brim instead Supports: Yes Infill: 100% Post-Printing Loctite Ultra Gel Control works well at bonding pieces together. But, if you don't want to have to hold it for 5 minutes, apply it and then give it 10-20 seconds of air-time and it will want to bond quickly. Also, I would recommend JB Weld Plastic Bonder for the seams. Perhaps extrude some beads of it, and use the Loctite just to get the pieces to bond quickly while the epoxy sets up. This method might be less tedious than applying some kind of filler (spackle, bondo, wood filler, rock hard, etc.) to the surface afterward (unless you want to smooth out the entire mask), as all that would need removing would be the excess epoxy from the exterior surface. PLA is soft compared to some filler materials so, unless you cover the whole surface, it can be a chore to blend/transition all of the seams while achieving a consistent surface texture. The less filler you need, the better; and aligning the pieces properly is crucial to minimizing the amount of filler required. Top Tip: Don't get THE cheapest paint, as it is priced by the amount and quality of the pigment it contains. Cheaper paints require more coats for adequate coverage (even spending an extra 50 cents on Folk Art instead of the Michael's brand 'Craft Smart' showed a marked improvement in my tests). This mask is larger than photos make it appear, so if you intend to paint the whole thing by hand then you'll want to do it the least number of times as possible. And remember to mix enough of each color you'll need all at once, because you might not be able to mix the exact same color(s) for subsequent coats.