RGB Headphone Stand

thingiverse

This is a headphone stand with an integrated RGB light ring and a slot for an etched acrylic panel featuring your logo. The base has space for an LED controller and a power port located in the back. EDIT April 9, 2019: I updated the base bottom and lid to bring the screw holes and posts closer together by 3mm, preventing them from hitting the LED cradle. EDIT April 14, 2019: I made several improvements to enhance the strength of the screw posts and help the LED cradle print more easily in ABS while reducing heat buildup. The LED cradle should now be printed right side up, with any bumps removed from the supports that may be visible at the edge. Notes/Build Tips: * This design uses two pieces of 1/2" steel tubing as vertical supports, with holes for these in all relevant parts. * The unit is designed to work with high-density LED strips cut every 2 inches, such as this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006L8UAZU. * To receive IR signals from the remote inside the unit, you may need to modify the base to include a port for the IR receiver. You can swap the controller for a wifi-based one like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0778TNKC6. * The LED cradle (BaseLEDCradle.stl) should be printed in clear or translucent filament with 100% infill to achieve the best light transmission. Consider printing it in ABS to deal better with heat generated from the LED strip, but you may need to enlarge it slightly due to shrinkage. * Cut a 16" piece of strip (eight 2" sections) and lay it in the side and front channel, then across the little shelf in the back pointing up for the acrylic sign (see below). * The slot in the top is for a piece of 1/8" acrylic. You can etch or engrave any design you like into that*, and the RGB light will come up through the bottom illuminating it. * Consider measuring the width of the slot after printing, but to fit the lid as printed on my machine, the acrylic piece ended up needing to be about 107mm wide. There are little shoulders in the bottom of the slot to hold up the panel and keep it from falling through and hitting the LED strip underneath. * You can improve transmissivity through the bottom by applying clear nail polish or (better) by flame-polishing the bottom edge with a propane torch. * Some glue is required. The top mount should be glued to the top cap, and the screw posts come in two varieties for tapping and brass inserts and should be glued to the underside of the lid. * I sized the posts for 1/2" #6-32 screws. The main concern here is not tightening the screws too tightly or the screw posts may break loose from the lid. * I put a hole in the center of the back for power, but you will likely need to enlarge or modify the hole depending on what kind of power connection your LED controller has. * If your printer is like mine, the parts should be printed in the orientation specified in the .stl files (a couple are upside down) to get the best finish on the visible surfaces and hide any necessary supports. *I did this design by hand with an X-Acto knife because I don't have access to an engraver. It's up to you to figure out how to engrave your design... there are lots of tutorials available online.