RepRapPro Fisher 3D Printer - print bed
thingiverse
Here is the rewritten text: Top and bottom plate thickness: 5.00 mm Side panels: 3.00 mm How I Designed This Metal Fisher January 30, 2017 Idler bracket with thicker walls. The idler-bracket-v2.scad file uses "1244-Idlerbracket.STL". Update: September 26, 2016 Aluminium diagonal arms were too steep. I'm going to try laser-cut polycarbonate rods. I learned a hard lesson about electricity. Aluminium print beds must be non-conductive. Fisher uses spring-loaded print beds as Z probes. Three balls on the bed act as probe switches. Make sure three balls are disconnected from aluminum, meaning resistance between the balls should be infinite or mega-ohm range. Spray non-conductive chemicals or paint right after drilling the three holes where the ball seats. If you reverse this order, three balls become one big switch, rendering Fisher's auto-calibration feature unsupported by RepRapFirmware. Need stronger bed springs Aluminium beds weigh over 300g, which is two and a half times the weight of Acrylic beds, causing frequent layer shifts. I reinforced the bed springs using ball-point pens' springs. Buy two ball-point pens, cut the pen's spring in half, and insert it into each bed spring. Change the Z probe setting in config.g file. Here are my settings: G31 X0 Y0 Z-0.1 P1000 ; Set the zprobe height and threshold (put your own values here) Fisher 1 3D Printer RepRapPro closed business after releasing Fisher 1. Former employees sell Fisher 1 kits and parts on emaker.io. Software I used: OpenSCAD, QCAD Story: I modified the DXF file of RepRapPro's Fisher 3D Printer to make laser-cut steel and aluminum parts. In June 2015, RepRapPro released Fisher 3D Printer Beta version, using Deltabot technology like Mini Kossel. The company offered a sales price for beta versions before finalizing the Fisher 3D Printer. I was curious about other Deltabot 3D Printers made by well-known companies at that time because I had issues with my homemade Mini Kossel, especially objects demanding excessive retraction. The sales price was around $200 British pounds. Shipping and handling fees cost me over $200 USD due to a company's innocent mistake. I ended up paying about $100 USD for the shipping fee. One important lesson I learned is to avoid FedEx international shipping unless a third party covers the outrageous costs. The kit quality is excellent compared to cheap Chinese ones. Build instructions were thorough, and items were neatly packed. I felt good helping a well-known company in the Open Source 3D Printing community. One major issue I found was that critical parts of Fisher were made from flimsy Acrylic plastic. How not to crack one of these parts? I cracked an effector piece later on, followed by cracking one front panel. I spent about twenty hours assembling Fisher Beta and ran it for two or three days. Then, I decided to use it as a production machine. The reliability of Acrylic plastic parts was concerning me, so I planned to replace all Acrylic parts with steel and aluminum ones. Base and top plates: 5mm steel Two front and one side panel: 3 mm steel 12 diagonal arms: 4 mm aluminum (original spec was 3 mm) Two effector pieces: 4 mm aluminum (original spec was 3 mm) I made two big mistakes here: Firstly, I don't recommend using aluminum for parts that are delicate or require precision down to 0.1 mm. The surface quality is rough, holes aren't round due to the low melting point of aluminum. The technician at the laser cut company called it "exploding hole." I should have used 3mm polycarbonate, which would save hours of labor work. Secondly, I was in a hurry and assumed that 1 mm thicker plates would be better, but they weren't. In precision machines, all specs mean something behind them. One print bed: 5 mm aluminum I'm going to replace the 12 diagonal arms with decent rod end bearings and carbon or aluminum rods if possible. The designers at RepRapPro demonstrated an ingenious way to drop kit costs, but it's not worth it for serious 3D Printers that run 10-8 hours per day. Moai glasses holder
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