Replace Right Hotend with Left Part Cooling for Replicator 2X FlexionHT and Replace Right Motor such as for Flexible Filament

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This cooling is good enough for PLA and TPU, but you need the Flexion extruder or expansion will cause clogs. Makerbot started to go downhill around that time and seem to have locked you into their filament by making other filament clog the narrow filament passage. The FlexionHT doesn't have the problem. Instead of printing two colors less than 50% of the time, remove the whole right assembly and print one color reliably. The right nozzle just tears your model off the bed anyway (even if the nozzles are perfectly leveled, or the right one .1mm higher, it catches on any warped edges and tears the part off of the bed). The "unibody" part goes in place of the motor, and the other parts go in front. This was only tested with FlexionHT, but if you have a stock Replicator 2X hotend assembly, let me know of your results. Please include photo(s) if you want help, otherwise try fixing it then click "remix" on here to upload yours where people can find it. The same goes for if you have a Flashforge Creator Pro--It may be too different but you may be able to modify this yourself if it doesn't fit. This set of two ducts replaces your entire right hotend assembly and right extruder motor. The duct may be too large for the stock cooling block, so it may require the FlexionHT for that reason (FlexionHT comes with its own cooling block). You may be able to still use it with some cutting and slightly less airflow where the stock cooling block extends further to the front. You will need a splitter for the fan so that you can use both fans. You can make a splitter using a JST+Dupont crimper and Dupont connectors. The reason that I replace the right instead of the left is that the left is the first nozzle in terms of my custom-installed BIGTREETECH mainboard. However, as long as you choose the left nozzle you should be able to use this with the stock hardware. Just make sure you unplug the power from the printer then: **unplug the right heater from the mainboard to prevent fires!** since it will not be in use. Remove those two wires with bare ends from the printer entirely so that the ends don't end up touching any circuits while the printer is powered. By doing this project you agree to accept all risk on yourself. If you want to replace the mainboard with a BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo like I did, I have some information here: <https://github.com/Poikilos/marlininfo> (requires lots of JST and Dupont connectors and a JST+Dupont crimper and reading diagrams and connections).