Rep 2x E3D upgrade

thingiverse

I loved the 2x e3d upgrade but was worried the fan ducts were going to break with all the shaking and didn't think they snapped on very tightly. Went ahead and upgraded and redesigned. And then I just kept going, this is a full redesign of cadsys' e3d upgrade for the 2x: Hardware: 2 x M3x18 or longer - carriage to hotend assembly 3 x M3x12 or longer - top cap to hotend assembly 2 x M3 washer - optional for the top cap 1 x good ol popscicle stick - X axis endstop 5 x M3 nuts K type thermocouple for e3d: https://www.matterhackers.com/store/printer-accessories/e3d-type-k-thermocouple-cartridge Software: Just need to reverse the direction on the two extruders when using cadsys's upside down rear mount extruder mounts. Directions: Assemble E3D extruders, use the kType thermocouples instead of what came with them. Push the 5 3mm nuts into their holes and line them up with the bolt holes, should be snug and they shouldn't fall out easily. Cut off about 1.375" of a popsicle stick and glue into the matching cutout on the hot end mount. Secure the clamp to the top of the hot ends with the 12mm bolts. Cinch down each of the bolts before tightening anything! Check to make sure the clamp is level and then start tightening each of the 3 screws about a quarter to half turn at a time, don't over tighten the clamp to the point you are bending it too much. Screw the fans onto the fan ducts, make absolutely positive they are blowing DOWN. Ideally the wires are pointing in or forward. Snap the fan ducts onto the hot end, they should feel very secure. with no play but they will still rotate easily. Use the two 18mm screw to attach the assembly into your X carriage. Wire it all up and you're good to go! Connect thermocouples as shown in the picture, if yours come with different colored terminals or wires use a DMM with the ability to read a thermocouple to make sure you don't get the wires backwards, this can cause a pretty large error in temp reading at extrusion temps. Getting the two nozzles level is pretty difficult but spending time getting the hot ends to the exact same height helps then from there shim the side of the hot end holder with paper as shown in the last picture, it took a single piece for me to get them level enough that they dont interfere with each other but still stick to the build plate well. Slicer Settings: Simplify gave much better results even with the same settings, but the stock maker bot desktop still works! Just turn up the retract distance a little thanks to the bowden. These are some sample settings that worked for ABS and nylon through this printer, it is fairly robust and works with most settings unless you're going for the perfect print in which case tweak away! 3-4.75mm retract 2500-5000mm/min retract speed 4800-5100mm/min print speed (helps a lot) Print Settings: Printer Brand: MakerBot Printer: MakerBot Replicator 2X Rafts: No Supports: Yes Infill: 20 Notes: Infill really doesnt matter on parts this thin