REMODELED Flying Tourbillon Model 1.5

thingiverse

<h1> ORIGINAL MODEL / DESIGN BELONG TO A26 </h1> <h2> THESE FILES ARE MODELED 100% BY ME SO I COULD ELIMINATE THE ISSUES I READ ABOUT IN THE COMMENTS AND MAKE SOME CHANGES </h2> 5 x M3x12mm bolts/nuts required for assembly, NO EPOXY/GLUE REQUIRED Now you can go straight from print bed to assembly. I, painstakingly, spent hours completely remodeling every part from scratch. I... + fixed a few minor clearance issues + fixed symmetry on some parts + added tolerances of .1mm to press fit parts (i.e. .2mm total tolerance on a circle) + surfaces contacting 608 bearing are exact; 8mm I.D. / 22mm O.D. + slightly increased a few thicknesses + made it fit 1.55mm diameter shaft cut from binder clip wings + reduced shaft contact points on anchor, balance spring, balance wheel, and escapement wheel for smoother action (due to the design of the shaft through holes, you can use binder clip wings, 1.6mm/16 gauge nail, or easily ream it to loosely fit 1.75mm filament. Only 2 narrow points .2mm wide on each part are contacting the shaft to reduce friction) + made anchor with .5mm added to both arms (use if skipping); labeled 'Anchor +.5mm' + made the main spring more accessible for winding + fixed mainspring torquing off center + adjusted main spring locking tabs on base for better retention + made balance spring "pin-able" with piece of 1.75mm filament + made adjustment to reduce balance spring torquing off center + thickened balance spring + changed balance spring/roller connection point to eliminate play + added a stand which attaches with M3 bolt/nut and tilts the Tourbillon back 30° for better desktop presentation + added hole and slot for M3 bolt/nut to base + added M3 bolt/nut holes/slots to Frame A/B for easier assembly/disassembly + added M3 bolt/nut holes/slots to gear and base for easier assembly/disassembly + and added my logo to Frame B to indicate my revisions + **UPDATE | 06/10/22** I changed the base and made the spring retention arms replaceable. They break too easily, and PLA deforms very quickly. Now they can be replaced when needed. Important to note is that the torque goes from the mainspring, through the parts, to the escapement wheel, which causes the escapement wheel to be pushed "up" out of alignment. Increased infill on the frames and waiting for them to cool down thoroughly before removing them from the printed bed to avoid bending is important. Flimsy/bent frames will allow the escapement wheel to go out of alignment and cause issues. I recommend printing parts as they are oriented and avoiding supports in the bolt/nut slots as much as possible Making shafts is easy: get binder clip wings, straighten a bit, mark sections slightly longer than needed, place marking into wire cutting section on hardened pliers, then slowly rotate while squeezing (this scores the shaft, make ALL score marks first), then place shaft in "toothless" section of pliers (aligning score mark with the edge of pliers) and squeeze, then use another set of pliers (or adjustable wrench) to carefully bend shaft back-and-forth to break shaft at score mark, then sand ends smooth and to exact dimensions (dremel, with eye protection, makes exact dimensioning quick and easy). Shaft lengths: 1 x Long – 20.2mm 2 x Short – 17.7mm BE CAREFUL AND AVOID BENDING SHAFT