Remix of Makerfarm i3v Y-Axis End Plate for 8", 10" & 12" with Belt Tensioner

thingiverse

Update 2/3/2016 Major Rework The dimension for the 8" i3v should now be correct after I received the dimensions directly from Colin Farrer, the creator of the Makerfarm i3v series. To make it even stronger for the 12" and 10" versions, I've revised how the ledges work, allowing them to vary in height. In the openscad file, update the following variables: First set the variable i3v to the size machine you have: either 8, 10 or 12 Set the size of your machine by typing i3v = 10; Change Ldg_Len (length of ledge) along the top before it slopes down to 22; Ldg_Ht_Top (height of the top side) can be adjusted to a lower height on the 8" such as 14 and you may want to raise the height on the 12" version. Use a maximum height for this dimension before the bottom section gets cut I set Ldg_Ht_Bot at the same value to maintain evenness with top ledge Update 12/24/2015 Idler Insert Jig I added an idler insert jig to make it easier to install M5x30mm bolts, which attach the pulley in a compact footprint on the printbed. To keep this part securely fastened during the installation process, I've applied a 6mm brim on the surface of the object to ensure good adhesion on the printing bed. For better stability and less vibrations in my prints I've installed this belt tensioner modification of http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:613602. My original Y-Axis Endplate has undergone revisions including increased plastic support around it & the idler pulley design so now can fit a wider range of Makerfarm i3v sizes-10, 12 or even an 8 inch machine Here is my update that uses openscad code using included DXF files for the 3 versions of this item- and a hole pattern space to suit different machine sizes. This design modification is meant to improve structural integrity with less vibration in larger printers & it does look much better. The dxf file used is sourced from https://github.com/DonKahones/MakerFarm-Prusa-i3v-12-Inch The trick of attaching washers to the bearings is simple, and just requires squeezing the two plastic parts together while getting them on before putting the bolt through both at once. However I noticed that I had some problems keeping them on with just the provided bolts & even needed to realign my Z-carriage to get a proper level after finishing these prints. Since PETG takes up less time, and because this was a first-time install I decided to go ahead & do 2 print runs without using ABS for the tensioner, at .5 infill and with the layer height being around .2 of the thickness so overall it came out thicker on the first part than originally printed which is still a work in progress.