Rekalibrate MK2

Rekalibrate MK2

thingiverse

This is a total overhaul of Rekalibrate mk1. The core function, firing mega darts at full auto with brushless motors remains the same, but much else has changed significantly. The first, and most obvious change, is that the exterior casing is an approximately Astartes-scale boltgun, measuring just over 30 inches in length, 8 inches wide, and 17 inches tall. It sports single, dual, and triple stage capabilities, with effortless modularity as the trio of cages and the pusher are mounted into the shell with captive nuts and bolts instead of threading directly into printed plastic. I am still using the original higher crush Rekalibrate flywheels designed by Ultrasonic2, and the pusher is the well-known 35mm throw solenoid. In keeping with the spirit of Rekalibrate mk1, I had to incorporate a part of Rektify mk2, which is the rev trigger but stretched out to fit the massive frame. The two halves of the shell are held together by M6 hex head machine bolts of various lengths and captive M6 nylock nuts, for use with a socket wrench and a 10mm socket. Thingiverse only The cages are designed to be used in a specific order. Cage 3, the one with the long integrated barrel, must always be the last cage used if you are building dual or triple stage. Cage 1 must always be the first cage closest to the magwell. Single stage, use only the 1 cage. Dual stage, use 1 cage nearest to the magwell and end with 3 in the second mounting position from the magwell. For triple stage, start with 1 closest to the magwell, then 2 will come next, and end with 3 cage. 1 cage also has a very specific set of wheels that it is only compatible with, titled “first cage trunc wheels”, and they must be used with the corresponding cage to allow for proper clearance. To hold the separate blocks of the shells together, I simply coated the joins with a methyl methacrylate plastic welder, aligned the parts carefully, and let them set. For parts with mounting points, such as the areas with the cage mounts and solenoid mounts, I found it helpful to print the cage or mount plate and bolt it on while the welder is setting to help keep things properly aligned. For keeping the M6 nylock nuts in place in their slots, I packed the slot with E6000 and let it cure for two weeks. The M3 nuts can be secured with cyanoacrylate glue if necessary. The cages will need four M3x12 bolts each to mount to the shell. The solenoid mount plate needs four M3x8 bolts, and the solenoid itself attaches to the mount plate with five M4x6 bolts. I do not have a build guide, nor do I plan on making one. The blaster that I built does work, but I cannot guarantee yours will as this is a very intensive, imprecise, and expensive build. Expect to use 4+ rolls of filament, depending on your print settings. Proceed at your own risk. Expect updates and significant increases in muzzle velocity!

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