Red Dwarf Jupiter Mining Corporation Light Bee

thingiverse

This is a reproduction of the Light Bee Rimmer was using in the episode Legion, when he was upgraded from soft-light to hard-light. It was modeled from a photo of the original prop found at https://scifi.stackexchange.com/questions/27552/what-and-where-is-the-technology-used-to-project-rimmer-in-red-dwarf. Two versions are provided, one with slots for 4x1.5mm magnets to hold top and bottom together, the other with a friction-fit lip. Print Instructions:All parts can be printed without supports except the friction-fit “Top.stl” file. Rafts shouldn't be needed, but may depend on the printer used. Margins are intentionally tight on the Top, Center, Bottom, and Battery Holder pieces, and could require light sanding if your printer over extrudes. I've also included “Loose Fit” Center models where the margins aren't as tight. Two-color Top and Bottom parts don't require a multi-color printer to switch between silver and black sections, if your printer supports changing filament at specific layers. This can be done easily in PrusaSlicer: https://help.prusa3d.com/article/color-change_1687 If your slicing software has the option, place the seam at the back of the model if you intend to just display it. Random seam position looks cleaner, but has a less smooth surface with silk PLAs. Print at a high detail layer height for best results. I've used 0.1mm layer height on most Light Bee parts, but a lower detail on the Proof Plate and Stand parts. Infill is up to you, but I used 10%.Magnetic versionSilverMagnet - Center or Magnet - Center Loose FitMagnet - Top RingSilver/BlackMagnet - TopBottomNOTE: Color change can be set at the same layer on both files, so both can be printed at the same time.Clear/Natural/Silk ColoredCenter Bulb x8Top Bottom Bulb x2Magnet - Battery Holder; supports suggested, but not required, best results for button fit were printed at 0.15mm layer height, not needed if you aren't adding the LEDs, natural allows best LED transparency to the center bulbsNon-magnetic version SilverCenter or Center - Loose FitSilver/BlackTop (requires supports)BottomNOTE: Color change cannot be set at the same layer with friction-fit parts, so need to be printed separately.Clear/Natural/Silk ColoredCenter Bulb x8Top Bottom Bulb x2Battery Holder; supports suggested, but not required, best results for button fit were printed at 0.15mm layer height, not needed if you aren't adding the LEDs, natural allows best LED transparency to the center bulbsDisplay Stand These parts can usually be printed at a larger layer height, 0.2mm or 0.35mm. I also used PrusaSlicer's “Ironing” feature to smooth the top surface: https://help.prusa3d.com/article/ironing_177488 SilverProof Plate Text or Proof Plate Blank (if printing solid color)Proof Plate StandProof Plate Peg 5xSilver/BlackProof Plate Text can be printed with a horizontal color change for one or two layers of the textBlackDisplay BottomDisplay TopAssembly Instructions:Light BeeIf using magnets: Insert four 4x1.5mm magnets into the four slots in the Magnet - Top Ring and Magnet - Center parts. Magnets will likely be loose. I found it easiest to hold them in place using spare magnets on the bottom of each piece while I glued the inserted magnets with hot glue. Super glue, epoxy, or other adhesives should work just as well. Be sure you check the orientation of the magnets so the two halves will attract before gluing them in!Once the adhesive for the magnets dries, glue the Magnet - Top Ring to the Magnet - Top. There are two slots that should line the parts up properly.Test fit the Center and Bottom parts. There's a single slot and tab to orient the pieces before pushing them together. Press together as far as you can, the Center should stop at a ridge in the Bottom when fully seated. Either glue once fitted, or pull apart, add glue, and press back together.If the fit is too tight, print the “Loose Fit” version of the Center piece instead.All eight Center Bulbs should be slightly loose when fit into the Center part. Use your adhesive of choice to glue them in place. If you're using the LEDs, leave one piece un-glued, which should line up with one of two slots in the Center or Magnet - Center pieces. The loose Center Bulb will become the button that presses into the Battery Holder later. I'd suggest test fitting the Battery Holder part before gluing.Glue the Top Bottom Bulbs into the Top and Bottom parts with your adhesive of choice. LED HolderSee photos for the finished product to go along with the steps below.Insert the tactile switch button into the hollow at the top of the Battery Holder. The switch should only fit with the metal connectors in one orientation. The metal connectors stick out past the 6mm body slightly, and should be facing the two LEDs when inserted. Insert the LED leads into the two provided holes on each side of the battery holder. One hole will line up with one side of the tactile switch connectors, the other will be against one side of the 2032 battery. Either positive/negative orientation should work fine, but I've found it easier to prevent shorts if the positive lead is touching the battery, and negative lead is touching the switch.Use a small piece of metal to connect between the battery and exposed connector of the tactile button. I used a small stack of magnets as well as a soldered piece of tin. Part of the spring from a click-pen could also be used, or anything metallic that will bridge between the battery and leg of the switch.If soldering a piece of tin to the switch leg, solder the parts together before inserting into the holder, then bend the tin piece into place before inserting the battery.Insert the CR2032 battery, with the correct orientation for the inserted LEDs. Press the button to test that LEDs light, and bend the LEDs as needed to align them where you want. Optional: Hot glue the LEDs in place to the battery holder.Insert the final Center Bulb piece into the Top/Center of the Light Bee, then slide the battery holder into place through the provided slot.You should see one side of the hole for the tactile button is wider than the other. That side should face the Top to orient the button above the Center Bulb properly. The fit should be very tight, to hold in place once inserted. If needed, sand the part slightly. Once inserted, the tactile button should line up with the loose Center Bulb piece. Pressing and holding the bulb piece will trigger the LEDs.When changing the battery, pull on the plastic battery holder, not the LED! Display StandUse two Proof Plate Peg pieces to connect the Proof Plate Stand to the Proof Plate. Use three Proof Plate Peg pieces to connect the Proof Plate Stand to the Display Top.Use two Proof Plate Peg pieces to connect the Display Top to the Display Bottom. Glue around the edges if you see any gaps, as only two corners have pegs.Fit for all pegs should be tight, but use glue if necessary.The Display Bottom is sized to fit a AAA battery holder, with a channel through the Top and Plate Stand that can be used to hard-wire the LEDs in the Light Bee (through an empty Center Bulb hole) to a battery supply. It would mean keeping the Bee in the stand at all times, and wiring a switch somewhere in the circuit.Parts list:Acrylic display: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XDWXJ4CTactile 6x6x5mm button switch: https://www.amazon.com/DAOKI-Miniature-Momentary- Tactile-Quality/dp/B01CGMP9GYSilk Silver PLA: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QGV6D8PSilk Colored Sample PLA: https://www.amazon.com/DO3D-Filament-Printer-Compatible-3Doodler/dp/B09SCNWDGN4mm x 1.5mm magnets: https://www.amazon.com/Neodymium-Magnets-Whiteboard-Building-Scientific/dp/B09Q61B559Any Black and Natural filamentAny CR2032 batteryAAA battery holder, if hard-wiring the Light Bee into the display: https://www.amazon.com/LAMPVPATH-Battery-Holder-Leads-Wires/dp/B08DR6L8F8All photos are from parts printed with a Prusa XL printer.