Recurve Bow Target Sight Scope - Bogen Visier - MNV3.1

Recurve Bow Target Sight Scope - Bogen Visier - MNV3.1

thingiverse

NOTE: *new Version 3.1 -Improved locking between vertical and horizontal unit -Improved bow-scope connector to right angle profile *new Version 3.1.1 -Improved trailer stability and M3 pocket for "federndes Druckstueck" -Added left hand (LH) support for vertical unit and dovetail horizontal counterpart *new Version 3.1.2 -Added a shorter trailer version which is 30mm shorter, This should be enough to cover all distances. At the longer version, the scope would run into the arrow at the lower side. *new Version 3.1.3: Long term experience changes: -Lock screw cracked the horizontal dovetail when screw was locked to hard due to 45° front angle. This is now fixed -Trailer connector craced when M3 screws where locked to hard. This is now strengthend. ################################################################### This is a high precision recurve bow sight with following features: -146mm netto vertical travel (116mm for the short version) -fast movable by button -Dual click -precision verical ca. 0.08mm -precision horizontal ca 0.07mm -changable scope inlays -10mm scope tunnel -Riser connector with standard imperial thread. -Detachable horizontal axis by dovetail connection, secured by locking screw for better transportation -Lowered area on the right side of the trailer for a dial -Made for right hand archers, but can be turned araound easily. Use LH version of vertical unit and dovetail so that locking screw stays on top for LH archers. (mainly a cosmetic problem) I set a high value on getting both axis working without any clearance. For this, I tested a lot of clearances and came to 0.2mm for all pockets that touch metal parts. Let me know if you have trouble with it. What you need in addition: Vertical: 2x 6mm aluminium smooth rods, Length 164mm (134mm for short version) 1x M5 Threaded rod length: -186mm for one vertical control knob or 196mm for two on both ends -156mm for one vertical control knob or 166mm for two on both ends 4x M2,5x12mm screws 4x M2,5 nuts 2x M3x14mm screw 3x M3 Stop nut 2x M3x10mm 2x Bearing 5mmx11mmx4mm 1x "federndes Druckstueck" e.g. http://www.maedler.de/Article/65460300 1x M5 Stopnut 3x M5 Nut 1x M5 Nut brass (Messing) 1x 0.8mm Federstahldraht ( spring steel wire) 300mm 1x M3x16mm Horizontal: 2x M2,5x20mm 2x M2,5x12mm 4x M2,5 Nut 4x M4 Nut 1x M4 Stop Nut 1x "federndes Druckstueck" e.g. http://www.maedler.de/Article/65460300 2x 3mm smooth rods (i take here titanium alloy) Length 25mm Connectors: 2x M3x18mm plus stop nuts 1x M5x25mm Din 931 1x M5 stop nut 1x Aluminium right angle, equal sided 15x15x3mm, length 250mm 2x 10-24 UNC 1 1/4 Zoll Length 31,75 mm Linsenkopfschraube -5min Epoxy -Silicon grease Print Settings Printer Brand: RepRap Printer: Prusa i3 Steel Toolson Edition Rafts: No Supports: No Resolution: 0.2mm / 0.4mm Infill: 80% Notes: 0.2mm for all small parts 0.4mm for trailer and connectors Material: Green-Tec from Extrudr, because it is heat resistant up to 110C and is easy to rework (drilling etc.) No part at all needs support structures, some parts have build in support that can be drilled out or removed Objects need to be rotated in correct position for printing! Print orientations: -Trailer: Lay down so that dial pocket is on the top -Vertical and dovetail: needs to be printed upwards, so that the dovetail profile is visible from the top -All other parts should be easy to find out... Post-Printing What tools do you need -Screwdriver, Sand paper, rasp, -M3 thread cutter to cut a thread for the M3 Federnde Druckstuecke -5min. Epoxy or other glue drilling bits: -1mm to rework the indicator pocket (use the 0.8mm steel wire) -1,5mm (to expand the hole on the dovetail that matches with the "Druckstück" Ball) -2,5mm (to expand the M2,5mm drillings at the trailer and at the horizontal unit) -3mm (to expand the horizontal rod pockets and the vertical lock block bolt pocket and all M3 holes) -4mm for M4 rod holes -5mm for M5 rod holes and lock screw pocket at horizontal unit -6mm for 6mm alu rod holes at the vertical unit Assembly Infos The 6mm alu rods needs to be drilled with 2,5mm drilling bit at each end. Note: These holes need to be exactly parallel and centered on the radius, otherwise the M2,5 screws will not find their nut on the other side of the trailer. Put the M3 stop nuts for the bow connector in their pockets BEFORE inserting and locking the back 6mm alu rod! The nuts will not be removable when the rod is in place. Cut the M3 thread for the "federndes Druckstueck" before assembling the rods. All threads must be orthogonal, otherwise the ball will not be centered in the nocks on the knobs! Use one "federndes Druckstueck" to create a nock at the top or bottom of the trailer. Adjust it so that it nocks into the vertical knob with a M5 Washer between them, The dovetail must be sanded until fitting together. The vertical quick adjust button needs to be sanded until it fits in the vertical housing. NOTE: start sand at the sides! There must not be any clearance in the vertical axis! The M5 brass nut needs to be cut in 2 pieces, which are glued in the button with 5 min. epoxy. Use steel wire and create a spring of ca. 15mm length. Put it between button and housing. Use some mm of the steel wire and create the indicator needle. Glue it in the pocket of the vertical housing with 5min epoxy. Use one "federndes Druckstueck" to create a nock at the right side of the horizontal axis. NOTE: cut the threads for the "federndes Druckstueck" not completely through the complete pocket! leave a half mm uncut at the ball end of the piece to create a natural friction to hold the screw in place without any glue... Use 1mm -1.2mm washer between rightside and horizontal control knob so that there is no clearance at all in the horizontal axis. Use silicon grease to make rods, dovetail and butoon smooth in movement... How I Designed This FreeCAD

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