Raspi Tank - BK's Mix

thingiverse

Human: I Just installed A new Pi B+/B2 bracket. It attaches securely using screws mounted in the bottom front holes behind the camera. Plastic Tapping screws fit snugly and provide excellent hold. Since first seeing timmiclark's amazing Drogerdy tank, I've been determined to build one. After several iterations and tweaks, my creation is taking shape. One recurring problem was track operation, with parts frequently binding. Similar issues seemed to affect other builders too. Probably my inexperience in 3D printing caused these issues. Alternatively, perhaps imperfect tolerance in the track guides contributed to the problems. So I revised the design. Keeping the overall dimensions unchanged, I added separate cogs for motor-driven and dummy parts. Motor-driven cog features full teeth while the dummy ones have only half. This simple modification has significantly improved tracking. Screw holes were added to allow for secure countersunk screws of M2.5 size, reducing hub diameter on cogs for a perfect fit with toy motors and allowing longer M2.5 screws to secure the motors. These enhancements address several previous issues. Using wire brads (15 finish nails) sourced from home depot to connect tracks is innovative and efficient - the sharp ends face outward. Now my Drogerdy tank operates smoothly and looks sleek. In hindsight, perhaps I added too many screw holes, as they can be overwhelming to use all of them - it can become frustratingly tedious. Always use lock washers with your fasteners to prevent rattling and potential damage to sensitive electronics. As the build continues, I will take advantage of these newly-added mounting points to add more hardware features. As this works out, that new component set will be shared. Building my own Drogerdy tank has been an incredible learning experience. Kudos go to timmiclark for inspiring and guiding me with his brilliant design! **Print Settings** **Rafts:** It doesn't really matter Supports: Doesn't matter as well, though that's not what it was designed for. In the past I've printed parts using Resolution of 0.25. Using a higher setting can yield better quality. When printing infill, 50% to 100% works effectively - results are pretty consistent across all materials Notes: For those who may have issues tracking or rattling parts - remember chamfering edges can be beneficial in smoother operations. I also printed separate tracks about 1mm longer and still faced binding problems. It might seem trivial, but stretching each individual part a small percent while traveling (especially low-torque motors) does provide the desired effect