Raspberry Portable Computer

thingiverse

This computer was inspired by the model created by N.O.D.E, and built on a Raspberry Pi Zero. It's designed for programming, playing simple games, and running scripts away from home. First off, I want to thank N-O-D.E for the inspiration that sparked this project. You can see how it all began in this video: https://youtu.be/SO4amBc0Tbw Since there were no files available to guide me through building this device, I created my own version based on N-O.D.E's design, with some modifications of course. I also made the necessary STL files so you can print it out in 3D. My device measures 127.3 mm x 115.5 mm x 16.5mm. I'll create a detailed document explaining how to build this project, but for now, here are some notes to get you started: In the near future, I plan to upgrade this device with a Raspberry Pi 3 A+ or 4 A+, depending on when it comes out. Components: - For assembly, you'll need exactly these components: - Raspberry Pi Zero-W - TFT 3.5 LCD screen (https://es.aliexpress.com/item/32609751923.html) - POWERBOOST 1000C (https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-powerboost-1000c-load-share-usb-charge-boost/overview) - BATTERY 606090 (4000-4500mah) - BLUETOOTH KEYBOARD (https://es.aliexpress.com/item/4000083821318.html) - Fine cable 0.22m^2 (One meter should be enough) - USB female: https://es.aliexpress.com/item/32910073895.html - Screws m2 5-6mm long (x6) - Nuts m2(x6) - SS-12F44(1P2T) switch: https://es.aliexpress.com/item/32954387518.html Software: - Before assembly, I recommend configuring the Raspberry Pi. To do this, you'll need to install :https://github.com/goodtft/LCD-show from the terminal of the Raspberry Pi. - To see the screen, type: sudo ./LCD35-show - To retransmit by hdmi: cd LCD-show/; sudo ./LCD-hdmi - I also recommend pairing the Bluetooth keyboard before installation, as it can be difficult to press the sync button afterwards. Prepare for assembly: - You'll need to desolder the GPIO of the 3.5 inch screen. - Cut the JTS connector in half to fit (if you're using the port, be careful with polarity). - Dismantle the keyboard and remove the battery soldered to it. - The cable I used for circuit assembly was 0.22mm^2. If possible, a thinner one would be better. Assembly notes: - Glue nuts into corresponding holes (5 in the back and 1 in the front). This ensures a perfect fit. I used Super-Glue for this purpose, pouring it onto the surface of the printed piece while avoiding the holes. - For pieces like the keyboard, I used silicone glue. Once the GPIO connections between the Raspberry Pi and screen were made, I secured them with silicone to prevent disconnection due to movement. - The battery can be glued using double-sided tape but not with silicone as high temperatures may damage it. Electronics: - Solder pins 11 19 21 23 25 (GND); 2 (5V) 18 22 24 26 between the Raspberry Pi plate and LCD. Note that on the screen, square pin is pin 1 and top pin is 2. - I've included an image of the circuit diagram. If it's unclear, you can find a PDF version uploaded. - To add the additional USB, follow another scheme added as a photograph (with Raspberry Pi face down). Suggestions: - Be cautious when using POWERBOOST 1000C as it overheats when charged with a charger of more than 1A, causing the PLA to melt. Consider buying thermoresistant PLA or charging it at 0.2-0.4 Amps (with a suitable charger or in places with low amperage like USB on PC). Charging at lower intensity will take longer but is safer for future versions I'll consider using PowerBoost 500.