Raspberry Pi Retro Computer

thingiverse

UPDATE! Print our newest model here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4088360 *The Future of Tomorrow is Here* Introducing our first entry of the Jupiter series of home computing: The Callisto J-29. Using the state of the art Z-29 microprocessor, you get a whopping 1 MHz of raw power* that can adapt to the ever changing world we live in. Just think what an incredible Callisto J-29 could do for your family or business. Properly programmed, it can help with your budget or teach children maths. And, at the end of the day, you can spend many enjoyable hours playing one of several terrific built in pre-programmed python games! *All-In-One Computer* The Callisto J-29 takes the risk out of selecting a balanced personal computer system. Now, CRT terminal, floppy, keyboard, and 32 bit computer are brought together in one self contained compact unit. *1.44 Megabytes of Storage* Built in 3.5 floppy disk drive system gives you fast access to your programs and data. We give you the edge in today's computing storage world. No more losing your data ever again. *Bottom Line* So if you are looking for a personal home computer system, it pays to look into the Callisto J-29! Now available at your local Circuit City! All for the low low price of $3895! The power is high, the price is not! … *Or you could just print your own…* Hello everyone! I have searched over the years for a full sized retro computer that you can print. Since I couldn’t find one, I decided to make my own and share it! The most important part of making this feel like a retro computer is the keyboard. To get that retro clunky fallout terminal like sound, I opted for a mechanical keyboard with blue switches. These days they are pretty inexpensive and available on Amazon. The monitor was the hardest part to find since most of the smaller monitors are either too expensive or too thick. After searching for awhile for the perfect size, I finally found it on Amazon for a reasonable price. To make assembly easy, I decided not to take the monitor apart and have it be able to fit in the 3D build right out of the box. The floppy drive was the easiest to find. There are lots of external USB floppy drives that are cheap and work well with the Raspberry Pi. And for the actual computing part I used a Raspberry Pi model 3 B+! This Callisto J-29 Terminal works well as a dedicated raspberry pi personal computer. ______________________________________________________________________________________ Here is the list of materials I used for this project: * Keyboard: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FZSTLBQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (Choose Blue Switch option !!!) * Monitor: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D71DVS9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (Comes with an HDMI cable! But monitor is currently out of stock. Make sure to choose the 10.1 inch option. Good monitor for $45) Here is a good alternative: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NRRWBG5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=tv-auto-20 * Pi: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BDR5PDW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 * Floppy Drive: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RXEWOAA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (This model works on the Raspberry Pi better than its predecessor) LokBuild for my monoprice maker select v2 printer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N9TBZRI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 * Super Glue: https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-1363589-4-Gram-Control-Adhesive/dp/B01HPT0AWQ/ref=sr_1_2?crid=312B4A9B4KF6K&keywords=locktight+super+glue&qid=1552075104&s=gateway&sprefix=locktight%2Caps%2C151&sr=8-2 * M3 X 10 mm screws: https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-M3x10mm-Thread-Stainless-Socket/dp/B01MFA9YEP/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2LGZ13Y6739K6&keywords=m3+10+screws&qid=1552080612&s=gateway&sprefix=m3+10+%2Caps%2C143&sr=8-3 (You can also find these at your local hardware store) * M2.5 X 10 screws (These are for sticking the raspberry pi onto the board) * PLA: https://www.amazon.com/HATCHBOX-Printer-Filament-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B015I1CYFE/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=hatchbox+pla+gray&qid=1552080779&s=gateway&sr=8-1 * Powered USB hub: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Individual-Switches-Included-HB-UMP3/dp/B00TPMEOYM/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3I0T3TG365TQT&keywords=powered+usb+hub&qid=1552084597&s=gateway&sprefix=powered+USB+%2Caps%2C152&sr=8-4 OPTIONAL: * 3.5 Floppy Disks: Pricey on amazon, try to find them cheap on ebay or craigslist * On/Off Switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ST2AHE0/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 * Retro Keycaps: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079GZQFY6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 * Micro SD card * Power cables for pi * USB extender: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B00NH11PEY/ref=sxin_2?crid=33QOW60LNVK2R&keywords=usb+extension+cable&pd_rd_i=B00NH11PEY&pd_rd_r=2e804af7-ff42-4cf2-95d0-ec87a101039f&pd_rd_w=QdZvS&pd_rd_wg=lt3BP&pf_rd_p=0395a9fd-d124-46c0-a48f-d8582ed1a45c&pf_rd_r=5EF0S1VNJ4KP1A3R4TN6&qid=1552074573&s=electronics&sprefix=usb+ex%2Celectronics%2C141 * Ethernet Port: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076C1F38Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ______________________________________________________________________________________ Let’s shoot some of these elephants in the room next. This project used 2 rolls of filament! You may be able to squeeze this into 1 roll if you want to sacrifice a little strength. These pieces can take between 10 and 18 hours to print! These are all large FLAT prints. I had trouble with them sticking to the build plate at first. However ever since I installed the LokBuild print surface mat, I’ve had no problems making my large flat pieces stick to the build plate! I HIGHLY recommend LokBuild. Here are some tricks to getting the full potential out of LokBuild: * Make sure you clean the plate after every print with some strong rubbing alcohol and a microfiber cloth. * Start the first layer with a high bed temp (I did mine at 90 C) and then cool the build plate right after the first layer (I did mine at 55 C) * The flat parts should not warp and stick like glue! ___________________ How do we make the print strong but cheap? 100% infill right? No, use lots of perimeters! Having 3-4 perimeters for ALL sides with a low infill will make this print very strong and cheap. Here are the settings I used on Cura: * Layer Height: 0.20 mm * Shell Thickness: 1.2 OR 1.6 mm * Bottom/Top Thickness: 0.6 OR 0.8 * Fill: 10% * Print Speed: 50 mm/s * Printing Temp: 200 C * Bed Temp 55 C (90 C for the first layer ONLY) * Support Type: Everywhere (Don’t get too scared! See below) Lastly let's talk about supports. The reason I chose “Supports Everywhere” are for the dowel holes, the floppy bay, and cable/switch hole on the keyboard holder. They are necessary for these parts and they don’t add a whole lot of extra time or cost to your prints! Please use them for every part so that the dowel holes won't crack due to being misshapen! _________ Finally, I hope that someone has been looking for a full sized retro computer to print like me. If so, I hope I have provided a good model to start from. Or maybe there's a reason these don't exist and this is just a bad idea! Please let me know what you think in the comments as this is my first upload to Thingiverse. Also please modify as you wish! In the meantime, I will be working on more retro computers and peripherals! Stay tuned!