Raspberry Pi Pico case for ADXL345 accelerometer using Cat5e Cable

prusaprinters

To use an ADXL345 (possibly similar), and a Raspberry Pi Pico as an input shaper for Klipper systems as a secondary MCU.Programming settings, and wiring were pulled from NERO 3D and the following video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W_VHbT_tsZw“Hey Nero 3D hope you can see and try this!”This is a remix of the following:https://www.printables.com/model/163999-pi-pico-case-for-input-shaper-tuningI really like the model, but I wanted to be able have the following:-to use zip-ties to secure the cable inside and out, as this could be used on several printers, and to have the cable restrained-be able to standard Cat5e Ethernet cable as the main wiringDesign:I was able to upload the original parts in the Fusion 360 and convert mesh.pipicocase_bottom-redesigned the USB opening to be tighter fit-height increased by 0.5mm to help with USB redesigned-length increased by 5mm to include space for a zip-tie-changed cable port diameter to 5.2mm found on Cat5e cables (please note Cat6 has a larger diameter, and these parts could be sanded out, but may lose access to zip-tie, tie down)-added a spot internally for a zip-tie (1.80mm width, 0.85mm thickness)pipicocase_top-length increased by 5mm to include space for a zip-tie-changed the geometry for the part that holds down the board, and the zip-tie head (found the original design covered pin 20, and 21 freed them up in case this is used for other projects)-changed cable port diameter to match bottom-add 0.5mm required from the bottom adjustment-rounded some of the cornerspipicocase_button-unchanged the 0.5mm height change still gave enough clearance for the button to function-uploaded for completionPrint Settings:It was printed in a spool of white to red transitional ABS from Replitech (https://replitech.ca) at a layer height of 0.2mm, no support, no cooling. I used settings for print my Voron parts 40% infill, 5 top/bottom, and 4 walls/perimeters, as this was already set in my slicer.**my zip-tie hole was very tight and needed pliers to pull through, so PLA may be an easier print with part coolingAssembly:-1 zip-tie internally to hold Cat 5e cable secure after all solder and wiring- 4 x M2 x 10mm coarse thread screws- 1 zip-tie externally (optional) I found I did not need one