Raspberry Pi 3B 5" DSI Touchscreen Case with Stand

thingiverse

This design is for a 5" touch screen that has a mount on the back for a Raspberry Pi (please see picture for what screen was used, it is generic so I do not have a model number...but they are popular and commonly available at the moment). This design uses a Raspberry Pi 3B. The bezel is a snap fit requiring no screws. I didn't need to do any cleanup to get it to snap together. After a month or so I did notice like 0.2mm of it bending away, but it still stays together quite well without any issues. You could put a drop of glue if absolutely needed, but I prefer that the bezel can come off because the compact design does not allow access to the MicroSD card without partial disassembly (so make sure the OS card you are using is what you intend to stick with if possible). The stand does require a 4mm screw, nut and washer to mount it to the case.This is a combination of my own design for the bezel and backplate of the screen and a remix of codeThatThinks 'Raspberry Pi 3 Slim Case w/ 40mm Fan' for part of the Pi case and a remix of Chrispy1029 stand that is used in 'Case for Raspberry Pi 3B+ with 5" touchscreen' (I offset the top for better balance and chopped it down so it was shorter). I give most of the credit to these two that provided a nice starting point for this print (Thanks!). I also used a Grab CAD model of the Pi 3B for mocking up alignment, etc in the CAD software. That model was done by 'Konstantinos Avgeropoulos' https://grabcad.com/library/raspberry-pi-3-model-b-4 The objective was minimal size and easy print. I will note that the bezel lip that goes around the screen doesn't come out the best (bad angle?). You can get away with printing it without any supports, but I ended up doing a second print with supports for it. The supports were difficult to pull off and left the very corners in need of TLC. You can decide whether to try with no supports or with...either way it will print.The files are uploaded exactly how they are printed. No rotating or anything. The stand I did set to Ironing all to give me a nice surface finish. I would recommend doing this for the stand, but it isn't necessary.Because of the compact slim design you will see that it requires either a very slim power cable that is preferably angled 'UP' or an angled 'UP' USB micro adapter (which is what I used). Of course you can just have it sticking straight up if you don't have an angled version, but that won't look good...and you'll still have to find a slim version because those cheap blocky versions won't plug in (there isn't enough space). You'll see this in the pictures.I also uploaded a picture of a RJ45 'Down' angle which is what I would recommend if you are using a LAN cable instead of Wi-Fi. Note that you'll need a flat metal object to depress the LAN cable release if/when you need to remove the cable because of the tight fit. Otherwise when it is in, you should have just enough clearance for it to lock in place...only if there is not a boot wrapped around the cable end. Look at the picture to see what I have used successfully.And finally...because this is intended to sit on a nightstand of sort, there is no way I want the fan running 24/7 regardless of it being on 3.3V or super quite. With heatsinks the majority of time a fan isn't even needed. So, you will see I have inline a PWM module. I show a clear picture of the module without any heat shrink tubing on it. It is just a N-MOS with a very fast 1A diode (so this is specifically made for inductor loads) and a 10K pull down resistor so it defaults to 'off' state. All the extra wire is because I was testing this out and hadn't decided to cut everything super short. But, it worked out great. If you run it inline like I did with this project you can run the control lead over to a pin that can do PWM. Otherwise it can plug directly onto the pins that provide 5V, ground and a standard pin to turn the fan on and off. Current RPi OS actually has a setting to specify a pin that you have your fan control connected to. But, this only does on/off and I wanted it to ramp up the speed as needed. I use a python script that was developed (or at least provided) by Aerandir14 at https://www.instructables.com/PWM-Regulated-Fan-Based-on-CPU-Temperature-for-Ras/ this allows me to keep the whole setup pretty quite, yet if needed it can easily cool it down.This PWM module was designed and made by me. Makes any 2-wire DC fan into a controllable PWM fan (actually to be more specific, any 2-wire small DC load into a PWM controllable load). When I got the boards made I had quite a few additional ones made since they work on any Mini-PC as well as any projects you need to control an inductor load (i.e. motor) without having to worry about voltage spikes that will destroy your Mini-PC. This particular module can actually handle up to 30V 1A at 1MHz frequency (the Diode is a US1G with super fast recovery). Because of their size they can be easily shipped in an envelope so it shouldn't cost much to ship...anyway, my point here is if you are interested in buying some, drop me a PM and I'll see about coming up with a price and some way to sell these.