RaMRaL

thingiverse

RaMRaL is my take on a case for four components, designed to look sleek on any desktop. I'm still waiting for all the parts, but based on some models I used, it should fit perfectly once they arrive. A warning for RPi3 users: The power LEDs on this model have shifted and might get damaged from the rear support closest to the power socket. This is especially true in the image provided earlier. I'm working on a new version that addresses this issue, but until then, you can use a Dremel to sand it down 3mm. Important notes: The Raspberry Pi should be powered via the GPIO 5V pin instead of the micro USB port to avoid cluttering the side with unnecessary cables. You have two options: Take the 5V from one of the servo connections on the RAMPS or glue a 5V voltage regulator to the case's side. There are apparently two versions of the 12864 LCD controller, and I designed RaMRaL for the version featuring a rotary knob in the middle. However, I'm working on a new version that accommodates the alternative design with the rotary knob positioned further to the right. Updates: Update 1: I've added new versions of the lid and body that support the LCD from reprapdiscounts. The main difference between this design and the previous one is the placement of the rotary knob, which has moved to the right side on this updated version. Additionally, the bottom of the LCD is positioned lower on this design. Update 2: I've included step files for users who don't rely on SolidWorks but still want to edit these designs. Update 3 - March 11, 2016: I was informed that the lid designed for the reprapdiscount LCD had its holes placed in the wrong positions. To address this issue, I've updated the file named RaMRaL-lid-discountLCD.STL and recommend downloading it again if you've previously obtained a copy. Update 4 - March 12, 2016: When assembling the box, I noticed that some of the fasteners needed adjustments, so I relocated them from the backside to the left and right sides instead. The new files are marked with 'v2' at the end, and if you've already printed the body, you can simply drill new holes on the left and right side. Update 5 - April 8, 2016: After finally receiving all my parts, I discovered that the measurements in some online CAD models aren't always accurate. As a result, I had to redo most of the parts, but now they're available for download as seen in the pictures provided. I've removed the sainsmart style lid with two buttons and instead focused on designing a standard lid suitable for both DB37 and 6Pin configurations. Shopping list: To build the version featuring all connectors at the back, you'll need the following items: 1. A 60x60x15mm fan and its guard 2. A D-SUB 37 Pin Male Plug 3. A D-SUB 37 Pin Female Jack 4. A D-SUB Plastic Hood Cover Backshell & Screws for D-Sub 37 Pin 5. A 6 Pin male and female electrical car connector 6. Some 3mm nuts and bolts Assembly: To assemble the three sides, start with the top lid over the LCD that will snap into place on the front of the body. Next, add the rear plate and secure it with two screws into the lid and two more screws at the bottom, making sure both the rear and the lid are securely fastened in place.