Radiomaster TX16S - hand rests

thingiverse

This thing converts your Radiomaster TX16s into a tray radio Printing: The files are for the left side. Mirror it for getting a pair. Print the hand rests the flat side facing down, so you won’t need any supports. Material and infill is not critical. I used PETG with 20% infill. Chase the screw holes with a 4mm drill, or slightly bigger. Clean up the holes for the rod with a 5mm drill or reamer. You are looking for a smooth fit. Double nut holder: Be aware, you can’t remove the back lid of the remote control, while the hand rests are mounted. This means the tree nuts inside the transmitter have to be locked into their place. This is what the nut holder is for. It carries the two lower nuts and gives the frame some strength. There is a small dot for reference. Print the holders, the dot facing down. Press in two nuts, carefully add some glue if necessary. Stick it to the frame with some double-sided sticky foam tape as shown at the picture. Align it to the holes carefully. Single nut holder: This piece is for the upper screw. If you have access to an SLA printer you can print it. Otherwise tap a piece of anything but steel and glue it in place. It shouldn’t be thicker than 3mm, the gimbal is next to it. You better remove the gimbals while mounting the nut holder. Preparing the rods Clamp the end of the rod in a vice which goes through the hand rest. This end has to stay as straight as possible, for a friction free rotation in the hand rest. Leave you enough material for cutting it later to length. The length depends on the radius of the corner you bend and the spring you will use. It also can help to get some space between the transmitter and your body. Bend a 90-degree angle to the rod, a piece of wood may help. Don’t bend the radius too tight. The length of the other end depends on your liking. The longer it is, the less will the transmitter tilt down. About the with of the transmitter including the hand rests will be a good start, have a look at the pictures. Drill and tap the rods for the M3 worm screw, at a position where you have some load at the springs. The worm screw has two grooves to rest in. The vertical groove is deeper and locks the rod in the upright position. The horizontal groove is for the transport position. The other end of the screw has to be flush with the rod. Otherwise you will scratch the housing. Some Loctite will help at the end. For connecting the belt to the rods, do what you like best. Shopping list: 4 x bolt M4 25mm cap head 2 x bolt M4 20mm cap head 4 x nuts M4 2 x washers 5mm inner diameter 2 x worm screw M3 10-15mm 2 x springs (found mine in liquid soap dispensers) 2 x 5mm stainless steel rods, 500mm length