Quest 2 BoboVR M2 Battery Mount - Improved and Remodelled

thingiverse

Note: To see the difference between v1 and v2, you have to go into 3D View and rotate the model! ------------------- This is a remodelling (with slight improvements) of "BoboVR M2 Battery Mount_smaller remix" by *toyxyz123*, which is a remix of "Quest 2 BoboVR M2 Battery Mount" by *feizzzthi*, which itself is a remix of "BoboVR M2 Battery Mount" by *MrTB* So why remodel and make this again? tl;dr - Better unbroken STL requiring 30% less plastic (less supports) with better layer strength and some minor improvements... First, the "smaller remix" by toyxyz123 is the best one imho, but it is a remix of a remix both of which were made by taking the original mesh and cutting bits off and jamming bits on in something like Tinkercad. The result is an STL with errors (when importing the mesh into Fusion 360 it comes in as 3 models because the top part and the hook are not actually attached to the main body; they are just aligned so they print as one piece) - it does the job but looks like crap and requires masses of supports. #### Improvements: 1. Remodelled to adjust the base at the back so the model can be printed at a 45° angle reducing amount of supports which reduces the plastic required by ~30% This also means that the part is **much stronger** because the layers are wider and at an angle. 2. Remodelling means the STL has no errors and means I am able to supply Fusion 360 and Step files for anyone else that wants to remix instead of crappy STLs! 3. Added slight cut-outs so that it doesn't clip the adjustment wheel when you take it on and off which the originals did. 4. **For v2**: Added two clips on each side of the bottom hook because I used it with a zip tie and no velcro strap. This meant that when whipping my head around in games like Beat Saber, the mount would slide side-to-side with the bottom hook hitting the edges of the black plastic at the back of the M2, and with the weight of the battery, the knock would sometimes turn on camera pass-through and pause my game. #### Printing Details: First, The difference between v1 and v2 is just that v2 has two clips that stop the mount sliding side-to-side as mentioned above. It is untested as I returned my M2¹ so had no need to print another mount. Second, the file `B_01 - M2 Mount Backplate.stl` is actually just a copy of the original from *toyxyz123*'s page - I had no need to change it, and I've just copied it here for convenience. There is another version on his page with extra holes if your using rubber bands or zip ties instead of velcro straps. I have a Prusa Mk3s, so I use PrusaSlicer for almost everything, but since trying Cura, I've realised that PrusaSlicer sucks when it comes to supports! If your slicer of choice put supports everywhere you will need to use support enforcers/blockers.. there are only 3 places that need supports: * The bottom lip with the hook as it doesn't touch the build plate * The back edge of the top lip where the adjustment wheel of the M2 pokes out * The hole for the velcro strap **There is no need for supports for the top of the hexagonal hole** *However* As you can see in the images above, even when a support blocker is put in place, PrusaSlicer still put supports there, despite me making the hole a hexagon so the sides don't exceed the support angle! What crap! The default normal supports in Cura are much better and remove easier. I suggest using Cura, but if you insist on using PrusaSlicer(!), I have supplied a PrusaSlicer 3MF file for v2 to show where to put support enforcers/blockers. Obviously, choose "For support enforcers only" under *Supports*. :D Also, as is well known by now it is perimeters or walls that give strength not infill and this model barely has any infill anyway, so I suggest you **print with 3 walls/perimeters** and don't bother with so much infill - you will see the difference between 15% and 20% or 25% is minimal anyway. ----------------- ¹ I returned the M2 because I felt it had too many flaws to justify it's high price tag ($60 in Australia), and I figured that since I own a 3D printer, I could probably design and make my own head-strap without the flaws of the M2 (weak hinge causing slipping) for a third of the price. I have since designed and made a prototype that's as good as the M2 and has cost me ~$10. Once I've fixed a few minor issues and tested the final version (which I expect will push my costs up to $20), I will post it here - stay tuned!