Quest 1 & 2 Rifle Custom Stock

prusaprinters

<p>Learn from my mistakes!!! - Please read all and see additional MK2 Version steps towards the end of the pictures and the end of this text. Tested in onward.</p> <p>This is a rifle/controller holder I created to play various shooter games on my quest 1 &amp; quest 2. This is a remix from another version that had closed handles. For quicker movement, I opted to cut the controller handle's sides off and just hold the rifle without having to pop them out of the handles. Both versions should work for you if you don't have silicon grips on your controllers as I do.</p> <p>On the MK1 version, you can see there is an extra glue adapter between the firing hand and the buttstock that is not necessary to add if properly measured the first time. This was added post-testing because of the operational ability to effectively aim in virtual reality. As seen in the photo of the measurement in the MK2 version, the optimal space between the firing hand and the end of the PVC tube is roughly 2 inches. If you have to adjust any of the measurements for your particular game, you can easily print another glue adapter, cut the PVC as needed, and reattach it with some force and super glue.</p> <p>The open-handle designs make them somewhat flimsy and they WILL snap on you. Fret not, some superglue will get you back to playing in 15 minutes and they will become stronger over time (the layers of superglue encase the controller handles and epoxy them after a couple of breaks). Even with printing at 100 percent infill, these pieces are flimsy, but effective after a couple of layers of super glue.</p> <p>As seen in the pictures, I put a ton of layers of rubber cement (super glue in the MK2 Version) on the handles to make them stronger. Even with these layers, they will break and need to be fixed after a couple of hours of gameplay. Superglue them back into place and they will be less likely to break on you after a couple of snaps.</p> <p>For this build you will need:</p> <p>3/4 inch PVC pipe - at least 15-32 inches in length depending on how long you want the barrel. Just buy a 5ft section and cut it down with a hand saw.</p> <p>A 3/4 inch screw-on fitting and cap if you want to close off the barrel (not necessary but it makes it look cool) - I also included an end cap STL for those of you that would just rather print an end cap.</p> <p>Rubber cement (optional)</p> <p>Super glue (a lot!)</p> <p>Strap material - I used paracord and key chains/crab claw hooks</p> <p>Spray Paint if you want it to look sick</p> <p>A branch off a tree if you want to do a camo paint job or use cut-out pieces of paper and glue like in the MK2 version. (be creative)</p> <p>For the strap, I drilled a hole in the custom stock print and ran a paracord through the bottom of it. I then affixed the other end of it to the front, in front of the bi-pod printed part. Lots of super glue is needed for this part so the cord doesn't slip.</p> <h4>MK2 Version####:</h4> <p>On the MK2 version as seen in the later pictures, I made the barrel significantly shorter, made the handles slightly closer together, and used a closed hand for the firing hand on the tan/green/camo version. My buddy preferred the closed-handle style for the firing hand but to each his own! I also included an end cap STL for those of you who don't want to buy an adapter but still want the rifle closed on the firing end. I suggest painting this end cap orange so as to not incite panic if you're carrying it around in public.</p> <p>The distance between the end of the PVC by the buttstock and the firing hand is 2 inches. The distance between the firing hand (back hand) and the support hand (front hand) is 4 inches. Get the bipod as close to the support hand as possible. This closer distance than the MK1 is optimal for shooting and aiming down sights. See the MK2 version pictures for reference.</p> <p>A rubber mallet and proper sanding will help with securing the glue adapter pieces and the end cap.</p> <p>Because of VR and the nature of it all, the bipod is somewhat cosmetic when attempting to shoot prone. When standing, the orientation of the handles is optimal for aiming down sights. Unfortunately, when prone, your aim will be pointed toward the ground. When shooting prone, simply take your support hand (front hand) out of the printed handle, move it forward slightly, and use the end cap/bipod for support by mounting your wrist on them. You will be adjusting your aim with your support hand. Good Luck!!!</p> <h3>Print Settings</h3> <p><strong>Printer Brand:</strong></p> <p>Prusa</p> <p><strong>Printer:</strong></p> <p>i3 MK3 MMU 2</p> <p><strong>Rafts:</strong></p> <p>No</p> <p><strong>Supports:</strong></p> <p>Yes</p> <p><strong>Resolution:</strong></p> <p>.30</p> <p><strong>Infill:</strong></p> <p>100 Percent</p> <p><strong>Filament:</strong> <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Overature+PLA">Overature PLA</a></p> <p>Doesn't matter if painting</p> <p><strong>Notes:</strong></p> <p>Take note to look at the print settings and pictures I attached.</p> <p>You will have to use paint on supports in whatever software you are using for the open/closed handle designs both left and right handles.</p> <p>The Bi-pod needs support everywhere.</p> <p>The custom stock also needs support everywhere.</p> <p>The glue adapter and end cap do not need support.</p> <h3>How I Designed This</h3> <p>Tinkercad software was used to modify the original files.</p> Category: Video Games