QUBD : Twoup : Y-table frame replacement

thingiverse

My TwoUp's Y-table has gotten loose and vent. So I designed this as a replacement. Also, I wanted this lighter, to improve the print speed and quality. Although I use the aluminum print bed in the picture, this design is compatible with the stock MDF print bed. Hardware Newly Purchased Hillman Mending Plate 9HL: $3.48 for 6 PCS at my local Lowe's. This design uses 4 out of it. http://www.lowes.com/pd_364404-37672-884480___?productId=3478229 If this is hard to obtain, I have included the PLA alternative in this design. However, the PLA may not be as strong or light as aluminum. 8-32-1/2' Machine Screw + Nut: 8 Pairs (to hold the brackets to mending plates) M3 x 20 screw + nut: 8 Pairs (to hold the Y-axis shaft) Optionally) M4 x 20 + Nut: 4 Pairs (to tighten the timing belt. The stock M4 x 16 Screw HW10 can be used, while tightening might be a bit of a challenge.) Recycled from the original kit 8mm x 290 Rod: 2 PCS M3 screw: 4 PCS M3 Nut: 4 PCS Medium spring: 4 PCS The QUBD's assembly manual says HW11 & HW17 are M4 screws and nuts, but my kit came with M3. Print Settings Rafts: No Supports: No Notes: Pre-Assembly test: This design assumes the PLA print grips the chrome shaft very tightly. I use SainSmart's PLA to get the frame very hard, which I cannot skew or twist by hand. However, other PLA or uncontrolled parameters may result differently. If this concerns you, try the followings before printing all parts. Print one of the brackets (table_*.stl) and one 'shaft_cap.stl'. Sandwich an 8mm chrome shaft with them through M3 screws. (If you don't have the shaft handy, probably TwoUp's vertical rod may be easiest to try, instead of disassembling the gantry or print bed). Ensure this bracket holds tight enough that it cannot move or rotate. Printouts Once above concerns are addressed, print out the following parts: shaft_cap: 4 PCS Optionally) Support_bar_half: 4 PCS. This is an alternative for the mending plate. Use this only when they cannot be available. The PLA may not be as strong as steel, though. Belt_spacer_3mm: ~2 Pairs (1 pair = 2 PCS). This adjusts the timing belt's height. No need to print for the original TwoUp. Post-Printing 1. Assemble the North frame Combine table_ne and table_nw with the 2 mending plate with 8-32 screw and nuts. Sandwich the Y-axis shaft with the shaft_cap with M3x20 screws. (picture 1 below) Picture 1: Bracket close up. 8-32 screws for mending plates. M3 screws for the Y-axis shaft. 2. Assemble the South frame Repeat for table_se and table_sw. The assembled frame should look like below. Ensure it is very rigid. Put the frame on a very flat surface (e.g. kitchen tile) to ensure it doesn't twist or skew. Picture 2: Put the frame on a very flat surface (e.g. kitchen title). Ensure it doesn't twist or skew. 3. Replace the stock Y-table frame with the assembled frame 4. Attach the timing belt Attach the timing belt with M4 screws. If the Y-axis shaft are raised in your TwoUp, use the "belt_spacer_3mm", as needed.(picture 3 below) You can still use the stock M4 screws to thread down, if you print a thinner version of belt holder (e.g. thing:987666). Using the longer M4 screws and nuts is more secure, though. Picture 3: Use as many spacers as you need to adjust the timing belt height