Python AMS - Actively Heated Enclosure

prusaprinters

Buy Python AMSI've teamed up with a few different stores around the world offering the printed parts and everything you need for the build so you won't need anything outside of the kit:VOXELPLA (United States)Veetec3D (EU)3DCNCDesignServices (UK)If you're interested in the panels only for the enclosure, you can buy them from LaserFoundry.LaserFoundry (United States)Python AMS has a strict non-commercial license, it can only be sold with licensing through Hume Beam Engineering Solutions. Update August 4, 2024Added an optional threaded version of the enclosure. The assembly is identical to the instructions below but you use no heated inserts at all, instead the M3 socket heads screw directly into the printed parts. This enables a cheaper, faster and easier build.Although this version is yet to be tested fully, there is a minimum of 4.00 mm of threaded material for the screws to grab onto so it should be strong enough but ensure you don't overtighten and strip the screw holes.The files are available in the “Optional - Threaded Version” folder.Update August 3, 2024The holes for the heated inserts have been made a little smaller so more type of short M3 heated inserts (M3S) can be used or if you happen to use out of specs (too small) heated inserts.If you've already printed the parts you don't have to reprint anything, just make sure you don't overtighten any screws and ensure there is no molten plastic from pressing in the insert stuck in the threads and you should be good.Only the bottom parts and the edges have been updated (no inserts in the top parts) but I've renamed all parts to version 1.02 to avoid any confusion.Our authorized parters / resellers will switch over to the most recent version immediately.Thanks for Andrew Soderberg (MediaMan3D) for the feedback.Update July 9, 2024This is just a quick note to make assembly easier. If you're having issues aligning the screw holes, flip the panel around, they're close but not fully symmetrical, that goes for all panels except the top panel. The left and right panels are identical. Usually the bottom parts are easy but it can be a bit more difficult to align the top and edges. So for the top, start with the screws in the middle first, like so:Then do the opposite middle screws and for the other two sides. Then follow with the corners.Don't worry if there are some gaps, these are intentional (tolerances).The earlier drawings (version 1.00) of the panels had screw holes that were perhaps not generous enough so if they don't quite reach or align when you assemble, please use a 4.0 mm drill bit and enlarge the holes carefully with a hand drill, if you use a power drill it can crack the panel but if you are careful it is safe. Checking again and they should be fine. If you don't have any hand drill you can use the 4.0 mm hand drill I made for the Chimera hotend. It uses M3 socket heads and M3 nuts for assembly. I will add it to the files here.The enclosure has been designed with tolerances for both panel gaps and screw holes so you should (normally) not have to do any scaling in the slicer for any filament type.AboutThis is an actively heated enclosure for Python AMS. It can be used with up to four PolyMaker PolyDryers. There is also an Passively Dried Enclosure available. The printed parts are actually the same, it's just the front and rear panels that are different but I prefer to keep them apart for different reasons.For most user cases, one or two dryers should be sufficient but it depends on what type of filament you often print as well as the humidity of the area where you like. Support for more types of heaters may be added later on.It's a good idea to also use the Python AMS - Silica Gel Boxes to maintain low humidity inside the box when the dryers are inactive.The size of the enclosure is 460.0 mm (width) x 390.5 mm (depth) x 293.0 mm (height).How effective is it? In my experiment, with three fully dried silica gel containers, a near full Prusament PETG spool in a Python spool holder dropped from 1233 g to 1171 g, 62 grams! Two PolyDryers used at the max setting for 6 hours, one rear mounted and one front mounted. Just using the dryers without the silica gel boxes is not nearly as effective so don't forget to use those with dried silica gel.Likewise, having silica gel in the enclosure will keep the relative humidity at a minimum and keep the spools dry but to actually dry the spools, both dry silica gel and heaters must be used.How many dryers should I use?it depends on your usage. For most, two PolyDryers should be sufficient.SupportAll my designs and mods on Printables are free to use and remix. They have a non-commercial license. If you enjoy this or any of my other designs you can send me a small donation using the link below. Thanks :)https://www.paypal.me/humebeamengineeringBOM - Bill of MaterialsI suggest printing the enclosure in PETG, ABS, ASA, PA or PC as it can get pretty hot inside the enclosure when the dryers have been running for a while so PLA will likely deform due to the heat.Around 1 Kg of filament is required at the recommended print settings. I've printed most of the test builds in Prusament ASA and Prusament PC-CF.Panels3 mm Acrylic or PC panels cut according to the included DXF drawings.6 x 3 mm round Neodymium Magnets: 8 pcsM3 Heated Inserts46 pcs are needed. It was designed for 4.00 mm long inserts (commonly named M3S or M3 Short).M3 Heated Inserts (select 4.5 mm OD, 4 mm length) For a simpler build, if you like you can use the “threaded version” and just use longer M3-10 mm screws all around the panels. Skip the heated inserts. It will be cheaper and much easier to build and will still be very strong.FastenersThe following M3 socket heads are required: M3-8 mm: 46 pcs, M3-16 mm: 8 pcs, M3-25 mm: 8 pcs.If you don't have any at home it's best to grab the kit below, it will have everything you need for this build and more:1100 pcs M3 Hex Socket Head Cap KitMagnets8 pcs of round 6 x 3 mm Neodymium Magnets are required.6 x 3 mm Neodymium MagnetsTools and othersSoldering Iron3M 4229P VHB Double Sided tapePrint SettingsAll parts print without supports and I recommend using 3 walls and an infill of around 15%. Print all parts in the direction I have set them.The handle has the text “Python AMS” hidden in the first layer that you can paint with your AMS if you like, use the Paint Bucket Tool in Bambu Studio:Print one of each part except for the M14 plugs (see section at the bottom), polydryer-cutout-gasket-lock-1.00.3mf, enclosure-cutout-seal-rear-1.00.3mf and enclosure-cutout-seal-front-1.00.3mf.The gasket lock installs on the inside of the enclosure to lock the PolyDryer in place so for one dryer you need two of these, depends on the number of dryers you use of course:polydryer-cutout-gasket-lock-1.00.3mfBe aware that the gasket locks may not fully support the weight of the PolyDryer as the “tabs” on the dryers are so short so in addition to the gasket locks I would suggest using double sided tape on the dryer against the panel, I use 3M 4229P VHB myself.What about the enclosure cutout seals? They're used in the enclosure cutouts where you don't use any dryer, it's to fully seal the enclosure. Let's say you just want to try with two PolyDryers first and place them in the front of the enclosure. You then must seal up the rear cutouts with the cutout seals. So print as many of these (front + rear of each) you need for your setup.The cutouts in the panels are also compatible with the airlocks that come with the PolyDryer, two of them are included with a single Polydryer.Assembly GuideFirst of all, use a soldering tool to insert all M3 heated inserts in both the bottom, top and edge parts. All printed parts are marked with FL = Front Left, FR = Front Right, RL = Rear Left and RR = Rear Right. A soldering iron (15-30 W is fine) and M3S (Short) 4.00 mm long M3 heated inserts are needed. Also use something heat resistant to work on, I often use one of my steel beds for one of my larger printers.Also, a regular kitchen knife (or steel spatula) to press down the insert is good.All holes where you should use a heated insert is marked with a cross.Start with the “edges” the top panel rests, at least if you're inexperienced as these are quick to reprint if you mess up.First place an insert in the hole. Then with a heated soldering iron, press down the insert straight down with only moderate force until it's about half way down, it should just take a couple of seconds.Quickly switch to the knife / spatula and press it fully down until it sits flat, hold it for five seconds. It's much more important that it is aligned and flat than fully down into the hole.First heated insert is done.You may want to clean off any excessive filament material with a sharp knife and clean the threads of the heated insert as well.Continue with the edges. Press in a round neodymium magnet in each corner of the edges, this will hold the top panel once assembled. Take notice of the magnetic direction so it matches with the top panel.Do the same for all marked holes in the four bottom panels.The top panels do not use any inserts.Don't forget the six heated inserts at the bottom of the bottom parts, these are for attaching the bottom panel.Important! For the dovetails of the bottom parts at the floor (pictured below) you should not use any heated inserts, just use the 25 mm socket heads here. If there are heated inserts preinstalled by a kit vendor here use a soldering iron to heat up and remove them (8 heated inserts).All done with the heated inserts and magnets. Now it's time for assembly. The holes in the male dovetails of the bottom parts are threaded with an M3 thread. Use 8 x 25 mm socket heads to screw together the bottom of the bottom panels. Go from the female dovetail side into the male dovetail side as pictured below. Do the same for all eight dovetails. Do not fully tighten yet, you might need to adjust a little later.Next, place the bottom panel and screw it with six screws to the bottom panels. If you're having difficulties aligning with the holes it you can carefully hand drill the holes of the panel with a 4.0 mm drill bit to expand them a little. Do not fully tighten yet.Next, slide in the left, right, rear and front panels. Take notice of the screw holes and ensure they match up, the panels are close but not fully symmetrical. If the holes don't line up, flip the panel the other way around.Place the four top parts of the panels.Screw the handle to the top panel. Press in the four remaining magnets in each corner of the top panel. They are press fit, make sure to match the magnetic direction with the edge parts.Screw the four “edges” to the top panels. This provides an airtight seal and is also used for the top panel to rest on. It can be a little difficult to align everything here but take your time and you should be able to screw everything together.Screw in the rear M14 plugs as per your configuration. This here is for four external spools routes, one regular AMS PTFE route and one AMS cable.The AMS cable plug comes in two halves. Place the cable in the middle, route through the AMS connector inside then screw the plug in.Place your Python AMS inside the enclosure. You don't have to unscrew anything of the enclosure, just carefully bend the sides and it will slide inside.Fasten Python to the enclosure with three M3-16 mm screws from the outside in.Seal up the enclosure holes for the PolyDryers you're not using. For example, I'm using two front mounted PolyDryers so I seal up the four rear holes. You can then add additional dryers later if you like.The enclosure is also compatible with the seals that come with the PolyDryer (two seals are included per PolyDryer), just showing both options here. Finally, tighten all M3 socket head screws fully.All done! Special instructions - For first batch of panels onlyIf you bought the first batch of the panels from one of the resellers it's possible you received a set with slightly undersized and misaligned holes. Sorry about this, it was my mistake but it's very easy to fix. The mistake was corrected in version 1.02 of the panels.To fix it, simply drill the holes larger with a 5.0 or 6.0 mm drill bit, you can use an electric drill if you drill slowly and you should not damage or crack the panels but be careful. Be sure to drill close to the edge of the table, to keep it stable while drilling.Now for the front panel, make sure you have the PolyDryer cutouts in this direction, with the cutouts closer to the top than the bottom else the AC/DC connector plug of the bottom of the PolyDryer will touch the floor.Screw the middle top + edge first.Then the joints between bottom and top panels.And finally the top corners + edges.Which M14 Plugs to use?You need to decide which setup for the rear plugs you will use. There are plently of M14 holes and unless you use the external spool function for all four spool slots like the render below, most of them you should seal with M14 solid plugs (m14-solid-1.00.3mf).One plug you must use is the M14 plug for the AMS cable, it comes in two parts and you install it over the cable like this before inserting and tightening it. It's a good idea to route it like the render above. Tip: If you're using the external spool function I recommend using the M14 with PC4-M10 or PC4-M10 couplers both inside and outside the enclosure, then you can just disconnect the PTFE tubes and lift out the whole Python AMS assembly for easy maintenance.For the rest of the M14 holes use the PTFE or solid plugs to have the enclosure fully sealed.