Pulsar Spinner

prusaprinters

<p><strong>Announcement:</strong> You can now purchase this spinner from my shop. <a href="http://etsy.me/2mV2u3f">Check it out</a>!</p> <hr/> <p><strong>Update 2/20/2017:</strong> Added a version of the pins that features a twist-lock mechanism based on 2ROBOTGUY's <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1802260">ingenious design</a>. They interlock for a nice, sturdy fit that won't come loose easily.</p> <p><strong>Update 2/20/2017:</strong> I've added a new version of this spinner that features an embedded bearing, as well. Simply pause the print as normal and insert the bearing alongside the 3 counterweights.</p> <hr/> <p>I decided to hop on the spinner bandwagon because I love fidget toys. But I don't like the exposed hardware on most spinners. This version uses hex nuts that are inserted during printing as the counterweights for a seamless look and feel. It's also a bit more compact than spinners that use bearings as counterweights.</p> <p>Requires 1x 608 skateboard bearing and 3x 3/8" hex nuts. I chose brass ones since they're heavier but any nuts should work. You could also use hex stock cut to the same size, which would increase the weight (since the center of the nuts is hollow) and improve the spin time, but also increases the amount of work that needs to be done in order to build these.<strong>The nuts must be a maximum of 6.35mm thick and 15.85mm wide (from flat to flat).</strong> The ones I used are <a href="http://www.homedepot.com/p/Crown-Bolt-3-8-in-Brass-Machine-Screw-Nuts-34521/203496199">here</a> but you could probably find others that will work.</p> <p>Printing one of these is fairly simple but the mid-print hardware insertion can be confusing for some people so<strong>read the printing instructions below for more information.</strong></p> <h3>Print Settings</h3> <p><strong>Printer Brand:</strong></p> <p>Wanhao</p> <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong> <div><p>Wanhao Duplicator i3 V2</p></div> <p><strong>Rafts:</strong></p> <p>Doesn't Matter</p> <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong> <div><p>No</p></div> <p><strong>Notes:</strong></p> <p>Assembly steps:</p> <ol> <li>Slice the models like you normally would. Be sure to print 2 of the buttons, one for each side of the spinner.<strong>Make sure you don't have supports enabled.</strong></li> <li>Take note of which layer is the first one to cover the hexagonal holes. You will need to insert a pause command into your gcode before that layer. I've included some sample code -- the code I always use for pauses -- below. Simply open your gcode file in any text editor and insert the code on the line before that layer starts. Most slicers include comments that denote the layer numbers.</li> <li>Print!</li> <li>When the printer pauses, insert one hex nut into each of the 3 holes. If you are printing the embedded bearing version, insert the bearing at this point, too.</li> <li>Resume the print. Different printers handle this in different ways. Some show a "resume" button/option on their main screen, while others bury it under menus. You'll have to do some research if you aren't sure how to pause/resume on your printer.</li> <li>Assemble your spinner. Insert the bearing (if you printed the press-fit version) and add the buttons. If the buttons are too tight don't force them, otherwise they'll break when you try to remove them for cleaning. Simply use some sandpaper or a file to lightly trim the offending surfaces. You want a solid slip fit.</li> <li>Enjoy!</li> </ol> <p>Here's my pause code:</p> <p>; PAUSE M85 S0; Disable Timeout G90 ; Absolute M400 ; Wait Buffer g28 X Y; G91 ; Relative G1 Z50 ; Move Up 50 G90 ; Absolute M117 "Change Filament" ; M400 ; Wait Buffer M300 S2000 P150; Play Tone M300 S2000 P150; Play Tone M300 S2000 P150; Play Tone M25 ; Pause SD Print G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance</p> </p></p> Category: Toys & Games