Pulsar Spinner

thingiverse

Announcement: Get your hands on this amazing spinner now from my shop! Check it out! Update 2/20/2017: I've added a game-changing feature - a twist-lock mechanism based on 2ROBOTGUY's ingenious design. This clever system interlocks for a sturdy fit that won't come loose easily. Update 2/20/2017: I've also added an embedded bearing option! Simply pause the print as normal and insert the bearing alongside the three counterweights for a seamless experience. I hopped on the spinner bandwagon because I'm a huge fan of fidget toys. But I had one major issue - exposed hardware. That's why I created this version, which uses hex nuts inserted during printing as counterweights for a sleek look and feel. It's also more compact than spinners with bearings. To make it work, you'll need 1x 608 skateboard bearing and 3x 3/8" hex nuts. I chose brass ones since they're heavier, but any nuts will do. You could even use hex stock cut to the same size for added weight and improved spin time. The nuts must be a maximum of 6.35mm thick and 15.85mm wide (from flat to flat). The ones I used are here, but you can find others that work just as well. Printing one of these is relatively simple, but the mid-print hardware insertion might give some people trouble. So, be sure to read the printing instructions below for more information. Print Settings: Printer Brand: Wanhao Printer: Wanhao Duplicator i3 V2 Rafts: Doesn't Matter Supports: No Assembly Steps: Slice the models like you normally would. Make sure you print two buttons, one for each side of the spinner. Don't forget to disable supports. Take note of which layer covers the hexagonal holes first. You'll need to insert a pause command into your gcode before that layer starts. I've included some sample code below - just open your gcode file and insert it on the line before that layer begins. Print! When the printer pauses, insert one hex nut into each of the three holes. If you printed the embedded bearing version, insert the bearing at this point too. Resume the print by pausing or resuming on your printer (depending on how it works). Assemble your spinner by inserting the bearing (if you printed the press-fit version) and adding the buttons. If the buttons are too tight, don't force them - they'll break when you try to remove them for cleaning. Here's my pause code: ; PAUSE M85 S0; Disable Timeout G90 ; Absolute M400 ; Wait Buffer g28 X Y; G91 ; Relative G1 Z50 ; Move Up 50 G90 ; Absolute M117 "Change Filament" ; M400 ; Wait Buffer M300 S2000 P150; Play Tone M300 S2000 P150; Play Tone M300 S2000 P150; Play Tone M25 ; Pause SD Print G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance