PS-3381-1C1 DL380 power supply mounting bracket for 2020 profile

thingiverse

I've been powering my 3D printers with old server power supplies for a while now. The PS-3381-1C1, from a Proliant DL380, is a great option. You can find these 400w power supplies on eBay for about $15 shipped. They provide 32 amps of 12v and 5 amps of 5v. With some basic soldering and cable making skills, it's easy to power average size printers using these power supplies, along with plenty of juice for a Raspberry Pi. If you buy two, open one up, and isolate the 0vdc plane from the enclosure, you can wire them together in series as a 24v 800w power supply. I've been using this setup on my X5S for a few months now. Having 5v, 12v, and 24v available is really nice. I also have access to 17v, but I haven't found a use for it yet. Of course, working with power supplies can be hazardous if you don't know what you're doing. Don't do it unless you're comfortable with the risks. Here's a hookup diagram: https://upverter.com/GeorgeHahn/ab0a74a39a2743c3/PS-3381-1C1-Breakout/ The "PS_ON" tab is similar to the green wire on an ATX power supply. I remove D1 from my RAMPS, connect the 5v supply to both "5v" and "vcc", and control my printer's loud parts with the ATX power supply feature in Marlin or a user-defined pin in Klipper. The power supplies have loud fans, so installing quieter fans is necessary. My testing shows that the 12v rail won't turn on unless the fan draws about 100mA, so make sure your replacement fan meets this spec or buy a 250 ohm 1 watt resistor to wire in parallel with it. The fans were designed for use in a server cabinet with many other servers running at full capacity. Lower CFM isn't a major issue, but I wanted better cooling and easier installation, so I designed these brackets. Since the fan sucks rather than blows air, and since the DC connections are on the same end as the fan, it's best to position the AC line cord on top for optimal cooling. That's why I included zip tie anchors to secure the cord. I also made sure that the screw recesses have clearance for both socket head cap screws and button heads. The design fits snugly - there will be a less than 1mm gap between the tabs on the U and the ends of the I when lined up.