Prusa i3 E-Bear Printer(old school component compatible Bear)

thingiverse

<h1>Ebear</h1> **Goal:** I set out to build a top-notch printer without breaking the bank (350 or so). It uses pekcitron's (Gregoire) bear x-axis ends but modified (by Toolson) to fit commonly sourced lead screws, which were too hard for me to get during the Covid pandemic. The other type was not feasible. Additionally, it includes mounts for regular end stops and conventional glass and PCB bed on a pretty affordable Y carriage, which I feel has been pretty effective up to about 90C. **BOM:** Note: All this costs 450$. You'll end up with tons of extra supplies. Assuming you have M3-M5 common size hardware and horseshoe nuts, it could save significant amounts if you already have these parts. _Ideas on where to cut corners_ I reused old stepper motors, found some extra new lead screws, hot end, fans, heated bed, and belt material from previous builds since most those parts come in bulk. Here's a vague breakdown, and you can probably find all these cheaper somewhere, I took the Amazon and quickest possible to ship on a lot of these prices. You could also do this build with any cheap RAMPS setup that you have tested. * Fystec online store bear frame (tapped at all frame connections) 78$ * e3dV6 60$ * PCB or aluminum heated bed 6-40$ (depending on if you want to solder) * BZAMD v2 Y carriage 18$ * Normal Z couplers 5$ * GT2 pulleys 20T, 5 for 10$ * 30A 12 or 24V power supply, 20$ * Common 8mm diameter 4 start lead rods and nuts (Prusa and Creality have wider spacing than the common ones), 15$ * SKR e3 mini board or MKS Gen1.4 with 2208s. 40$ * Go 3D print glass 220x220mm 20$ * Ender 3 LCD for e3 mini board or LCD 2004 for MKS Gen1.4 10-38$ * 4 stepperonline Nema17 motors 40$ * 10A main switch 5$ * Prusa mk3 bear 8mm smooth rod sizes (370 mm (X),330mm(Y), 320mm (Z) 50$ * 5mm belts steel reinforced 10$ * LMUU 8mm bearings 10$ * Bigtreetech endstops 8$ * 12/24V fans 10-20$ * ExcelFu OD 0.31 Length 0.78 Compression Die Springs 10$ **Building notes:** Most all of the printed parts do not require supports and should be printed in the orientation that they are given. Fystec 1th store for frame Aliexpress or Amazon.com for other components. I chose to print anything near the heater block out of Carbon fiber PC (The extruder body, cover and part fan). Otherwise PETG should do for all the parts and should last a good while.. I wouldn't really recommend PLA for any of these parts. _Firmware_ The Bigtrees tech firmware for Bltouch and sensorless homing seems problematic still, so I have included the only pre-compiled version which works, which doesn’t include those features. You can rename it firmware.bin and upload that. The rest of your configuration can be done in the slicer. I also have developed a MKS Gen 1.4 custom firmware that I have tested extensively on 2 printers now that works with Bl touch and 2208s. I will try to include that soon. _Cura_ Use a Prusa i3 profile. Print normal speed (60) flexibles at about half speed. I use 1mm retraction at 30mm/s for most things. You will probably have to modify esteps for extruder from 93 to 111 with a M92 E111 gcode command in your beginning gcode (In manage printers>machine settings in Cura) if you have SKR minie3 pre-compiled firmware and don't want to mess with Marlin 2 so much. I chose to base my profile on fine profile for PLA. I mostly print at from 0.14 to 0.24 layers. Once I got it dialed, the print quality I get is better than any of my cartesian printers. **Special thanks** Pekcitron, Toolson, Whitehawk2000, KMXS for parts modified and used here.