Protomaker Complete (Reprap Mendel variant)

Protomaker Complete (Reprap Mendel variant)

cults3d

Protomaker, I upgraded because I wanted better performance and the ability to print with ninja flex and filaflex without issue (Success!) Many of these parts have gone through many different tests and revisions, these are the final versions I've used as of May 17, 2017. Made my own design based on my collection of 2mmx10mm pastic screws and for some reason I only had 5 mm 3m screws for the stepper motors. Designed a plug to hold the hot end in place, I wanted to remove and replace the hot end without taking off the extruder hotend. Assembly is pretty straight forward, but instructions are always good. As any reprap mendel, you'll need threaded rods, lead screw with flanged nut, smooth rods, nuts, bolts, tie wraps, motors, 5/8mm couplers, endstops 608 bearings, linear bearings, wires, arduino and ramps and stuff or equivalent, hot end and fans. *Extruder block and extruder block 2 are the same, just flipped 90 degress. Same goes for the extruder plug. These are for two different size hot end hear sink fittings i have. -X and Y end stops, using the mech endstop v1.2, i've desoldered the button and screwed it into place and soldered extension wires to the board. The Y axis endstop I sanded down to fit under the build plate with clearance. X axis motor mount has mounting holes for the pbcb and button. Every bolt needs a washer. Including the z axis mount against the top vertex (should be washer-bolt-washer in order to align with the z bracket at the bottom and x axis mounts. I could go into more detail, but it kindof builds itself once you have all the pieces printed. Let me know if you feel otherwise. Extruder needs a PTFE 4mm OD tube chopped to fit snugly between the hobbed bolt and bearing for the filaflex and ninjaflex to travel straight and not get krinkled **X Axis motor mount has very tight holes, cut out the support and use a vice to squish in the lead screw bolt. Also, ream out the holes for the smooth rods and gently hammer them in. The X axis Idler mount has looser holes so that one side can be adjusted easier.

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