Proteus LED Light Panel - DIY and Expandable

cults3d

Proteus LED Panel - Expandable Leave a comment if something does/doesn't work, I want to fix it right away. This is an exciting design for me and something that I've been wanting to create for a long time. The Proteus LED Panel is designed to be expandable, allowing you to add more panels as needed. This makes it perfect for large-scale lighting projects or commercial applications. The panel consists of multiple layers, each with its own unique features. The base layer contains the wiring and circuitry that powers the LEDs. The middle layer holds the LEDs themselves, which can be customized to fit your specific needs. The top layer is designed to be removable, allowing you to easily access the wiring and circuitry for maintenance or upgrades. One of the key benefits of the Proteus LED Panel is its modularity. Each panel is designed to be connected to others using a simple plug-and-play system. This makes it easy to add or remove panels as needed, allowing you to scale your lighting setup up or down depending on your needs. The Proteus LED Panel is also highly customizable. The design includes multiple attachment points for custom attachments, such as cameras, microphones, or other sensors. This allows you to create a unique lighting solution that meets the specific needs of your project. In addition to its expandability and customization options, the Proteus LED Panel is also designed with safety in mind. The wiring and circuitry are carefully routed to minimize the risk of electrical shock or fire. The panel is also designed to be easy to assemble and disassemble, making it perfect for DIY projects or professional installations. Overall, the Proteus LED Panel is a highly versatile and customizable lighting solution that is perfect for a wide range of applications. Whether you're working on a small-scale project or a large commercial installation, this panel is sure to meet your needs. Standard Panel Size Print Panels #1-9 Print #10 X3 Print #13 X2 Print #19, 20, 21, and 22 (or 23 for longer leg) Print #17 or 18 if you want to mount this to something. Print #19-22 for the back leg. #23 is the longer leg. Double this for two legs. Print # 24, 25 for the power box. Print #26-40 (Optional) for LED covers. M4 Longer bolts needed. You may not need to use the M3 holes that run between each panel. This is just for extra support. The back struts should be more than strong enough to hold it all together firmly. Wiring There are many options for wiring. Option 1: On/Off, no dimming of lights Parts - DC Panel Mount Input Jack (image) - and a - DC On/Off Switch Solder the LED + to one of the two end sockets of the DC switch. Solder the LED - to the DC Panel Mount Jack negative(ground) Solder the DC Panel Mount + (positive) to the center socket of the DC Switch Option 2: Dimming of lights (easier than option 1) Parts - DC Panel Mount Input Jack (image) - and a - PWM Dimmer (image). DC Panel Jack + and - go to the PWM Dimmer + and -. LED + and - go to PWM dimmer + and -.PWM Dimmer search Front Covers Front covers (#26-40) can be used to protect wiring and LEDs. The Lips are printed separately (purposely so your printer won't have troubles) and then glued onto their adjacent Cover (Image shows this). 16mm M4 bolts will be needed to run from Covers to the back Vertical Struts. For light diffusion you can add wax paper or anything else that will soften the light. This is common when using lights for photos and video. Try gluing the wax paper to the inside of the covers to make it look way better. I may add another top cover to clamp onto diffusion paper if enough requests come in. Design Your Own Attachments The back has M4 attachment holes. You can design your own parts to hook into an M4 nut. The distance between these holes is 35.2mm from center to center. The power box attaches to one of these holes, as well as the back leg if you use it. Creating a larger sized version would give you more attachment holes. Any other options will change this wiring schematic. Please be careful when wiring and soldering. The switch is best used on the + side of the power source to reduce possible sparking when switching on and off. If you have any ideas please let me know. I will be updating this design for the next few weeks as I work through it myself.