PRISM: 3D Printer Enclosure

prusaprinters

<figure class="image"><img src="https://media.prusaprinters.org/media/prints/59992/rich_content/241bbfd5-c1ec-4b95-ac1e-e527246146ff/artwork_2-12.jpg#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%22398dbe51-6f5d-43e4-b8e1-ee5ca6968a17%22%2C%22w%22%3A2551%2C%22h%22%3A1650%7D"/></figure><p><strong>WHY:</strong></p><p>This began with wanting to design an enclosure system that had significant print time reductions &amp; some interesting features that you could upgrade to later on…</p><p>The project morphed quite a bit from my initial vision for feasibility reasons &amp; in the end I valued “interesting features” over "time reduction". While this is neither cheaper or faster than the Lack overall but it might have a few features here or there that make it worth it to you or you can steal parts off for your own enclosure/ projects. I'm pretty happy with the way the internal structure turned out but mainly learned how I want to do things differently in the future. To me an enclosure feels like a classic accessory to go with your MK3S+ 3D printer.</p><p> </p><p><strong>MAIN FEATURES:</strong></p><p>A. Reduces smells, sounds, &amp; drafts.</p><p>B. 3D Printed Connection Beams act as additional structure, wire management, LED housing, &amp; rails for slide-on attachments.</p><p>C. Some Futuristic Space Vibes</p><p> </p><p><strong>NEEDS: </strong></p><p>PETG filament</p><p>Black Acrylic Sheet (x2)- .125" T x 48-in W x 24-in L </p><p>Clear Acrylic Sheet- .125" T x 48-in W x 24-in L</p><p><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001M8MWI2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1">Foam Mat</a>- 23$</p><p>Assortment of M5 bolts/nuts- see Images</p><p>Glue- Elmers is fine</p><p>Filament Holder- <a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/26233-filament-spool-holder">By Halcon Designs</a></p><p> </p><p>Optional:</p><p>PSU brace- <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2859884">By Mikolaszuza</a></p><p><a href="https://www.lowes.com/pd/PLASKOLITE-1-Blade-Utility-Knife/3140935">Plexiglass Cutter-</a> (could just use exacto)</p><p><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B4LCWC4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1">Stepper Bit Set</a>- 17$</p><p><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B091KVC598/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1">LED Strip</a>- 12$</p><p>Magnets- 3mm T x 6mm D</p><p><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NSZ9XPY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1">Thermostat + Humidity Gauge</a> - 7$</p><p><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-48-22-6105-Mini-Flush-Cutters/dp/B07HXXW1Y5/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&amp;keywords=milwaukee+flush+cutters&amp;qid=1635107125&amp;s=hi&amp;sr=1-1">Milwaukee Flush Cutters</a>- 10$</p><p>Skil Cordless ScrewDriver - 20$</p><p>Paver-  2$</p><p> </p><p><strong>HELPFUL TIPS:</strong></p><p>See images for ‘official’ build tutorial.</p><p>Plexiglass Cutting/ Drilling:<i> </i>Having straight strong surfaces to snap over is key. A piece of steel angle iron worked perfect for me + a table with a sharp corner + some C-clamps. Also you really got to snap it hard &amp; make sure can hold onto a larger side. A stepper drill bit + the assembly tool I designed really speeds up the hole drilling process so you don't have to measure &amp; oversize your holes easily so you have some tolerance. I used a cheap plexiglass cutter tool &amp; would use again. I suggest leaving the plastic film on the material until you are literally done with the whole project otherwise it will get unnecessarily covered in shavings.</p><p>Support Removal: Not the most fun thing but I couldn't figure out a way to get the shape I wanted without some support material. I used a set of needle nose pliers for my first pass, then flush cutters from Milwaukee for any little pieces that stuck. </p><p>Screws &amp; Nuts: doing all the fasteners by hand could be a pain (but maybe that's just me because of all the design iterations I had to do). A cheap screw driver like this made it quite satisfying and has been nice to have around since.</p><figure class="media"><oembed url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ZWlJn0sBaQ&amp;ab_channel=Cosador"></oembed></figure><p><br/><strong>PLANNED UPDATES:</strong></p><ol><li>Window Ventilation</li><li>Explore different uses of internal structure</li><li>---------- May or May not do (below)-----------</li><li>Test Enclosure without connector beams</li><li>Allow for the individual connector beams to be removed without having to take off a panel</li><li>Optimize Fan Usage. when &amp; how to use the fan.</li><li>Optimize Parts for Batch Printing</li><li>Install octoprint lighting status features</li><li>Reduce the amount of uniquely dimensioned cut plexiglass</li><li>Add Plexiglass laser cut pattern</li></ol><p> </p><p><strong>WARNING:</strong> </p><p>Pretty but not perfect…</p><p>Time: this took me awhile to Build, Print, (&amp; Design) so I am assuming it will for you too. 70 hrs of printing.</p><p>High Difficulty: Cutting the plexiglass to the right dimensions is <i>very</i> <i>critical</i> to overall build quality &amp; gap management. Cutting is great to learn but needs patience. Laser Cutter would probably work best if you've got it. </p><p>Updates: I will do my best to update any major errors you find, however I now have other new projects I am working on so it won't be top priority.</p><p>Damage: I really don't have any concerns about this. that said, I am not responsible for any damage done during assembly of this project. I would not recommend stacking multiple enclosures or putting heavy weight on top of enclosure.</p><p>Safety: Also strangely enough some support material got into my eye while removing it, as reminder be a pro &amp; wear glasses.</p><p> </p><p><strong>THANKS!</strong></p>