Powerful CTC Fan Duct

thingiverse

I highly recommend referring to the NEW DESIGN which works a lot better at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2263781. If you're making this thing and are happy with it, I kindly ask that you give it a shout! =================================================================== Update 2017 Feb. 4th Old files removed. Final versions uploaded. Modifications: substantial noise reduction by changes around the fans and inlets (less fan-stall/resonance, works like a charm now) support brackets to prevent bending extended duct (to the rear) added. One certainly would have to rework the section for the clip depending on print-quality. There is also a small lid for the cables at the front included. It's not really necessary; one might use it as they see fit. Use styrofoam glue too to fix it in place... Already printed parts are 100% compatible with the new ones. Be sure to fix the fans not too tight to the lower part, especially not the edge. It's just microns between smooth running and howling... One more experience to be shared! Keep your hotends well isolated. It took me days to figure out why my "Marvins" melted away. I first thought it was the duct. It turned out that removing the isolation was the reason... =================================================================== First, I want to say that I designed this thing with great respect and gratitude for http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:537918, which made many a good print possible in the first place. And still, I thought I needed some more cooling power, which led me to http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1886734. This one proved that I was on the right track, and I gave the 3D-Marvins http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:215703 a try. But those little guys wouldn't come out as I wanted them to. Although this weird little ship http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:763622 turned out better than before, I wasn't entirely satisfied. My latest duct uses two radial fans and proved to be worth the effort. The whole idea is about maximum cooling power with as little weight as possible, and the weight should be near the carriage for less vibration. It sits well on the carriage and powers up under both nozzles. At the rear end, it may come in contact with the heat-cartridges, but they make just a small imprint without affecting the function at all. (Spacers added Dec. 3rd.) What you need is some M3 screws and nuts, and two fans like the ones in the picture. Of the fans, I think they're quite common ones, and you can get them for just a few bucks. To cover all needs, I attached even the FreeCad files for those who want to use other ones and need to adjust some dimensions. Disassembling mine got a bit hairy (first one destroyed). It turned out that I had to cut the fans' base exactly outside of the sticker using a sharp knife. I actually lost some hydraulic fluid... I recommend using styrofoam glue to attach them, as this glue doesn't dissolve PLA and is quite strong, even though it can be disassembled. At the bracket, one might have to rework at the chamfered edges, but it's intended to sit somewhat tight; you'll even have to press a little bit on top to get the screw in. Warning! The opposing rotary-direction of the fans brings a lot of airflow but causes some kind of audible resonance. In other words... This thing whines like a fighter jet at start-run! Print Settings Printer: CTC Dual Rafts: No Supports: No Resolution: 0.2 Notes: 10% infill for the duct, NO SUPPORTS. Even some fails of the first roof-layer proved to be no problem. There is enough space in the duct. 30% infill for the bracket and the cover.