PowerBook 100 series hinge fix

thingiverse

By popular request I've made a hinge fix for the PB100 series. I based it on my PB170, so it should work on both 140 and 170, not sure about the PB100. I leave the text and the link to the post in the 68kmla forum, for more information. https://68kmla.org/forums/index.php?/topic/59666-powerbook-540c-hinge-restoration-success/ Finally, I finished the PB 100 series hinge fix. This one has been a little more tricky than the 500 series by some reasons, and I had to reprint it a few times to correct a couple issues. Some considerations: -Unlike the 500 series, the backpanel of the display isn't flat. This makes glueing the 3D printed part to the case mandatory. Otherwise, the screen has some free movement and when the lid is closed it opens a gap between the two cases. I couldn't get the glue yet, but I'm sure that glueing it will solve it. -The part must fit a two-leveled surface, 1mm a part. This forces to print a 1mm suport under the hinge area. No way this can be printed in PLA and get the support removed. I never worked with PET, but ABS is very easy to peel the supports, so I'd go with ABS for sure. Indeed it's easier to glue to the case if it's made in ABS. -About the threads: I've reused the thread inserts, so I could use the same screws, but note that I've inserted it BACKWARDS, so the thick part touches the case. This way makes it much difficult for it to loose. It comes in pretty tight, so I recommend to use a vice if possible. You might be able to insert it with pliers, but it could enter bent and break the plastic. Also make sure to remove all glue and plastic rests you may have in the threads. I burned it with a lighter and screwed the screw a few times to make sure the thread was clean. Also using this system reduces considerably the tolerance of the print, so the threads don't misalign with the hinges. Fortunately my printer is quite precise and I don't need to adjust anything before printing, but you should make sure your printer doesn't distort any dimension. There are some benchmarks on thingiverse to measure such distortion so you can adjust it before printing. I think that's all. I leave the link to the thing in thingiverse and some pictures of the process where you can see what I mentioned above.