Power Supply Quick Enclosure

thingiverse

One can easily find these power supplies online from Pacific-rim sellers, who intended them for lighting systems such as LEDs but make a fine basic 12V supply with enough current to drive your 3D printer or other gear. A 12.5Amp unit like the one pictured here is typically priced at $10-15 depending on how much current you want, and many options are available on eBay stores. With exposed 120V or 220V input terminals and high-current outputs, you want to exercise caution when handling them. I've created a simple end-cap that fits snugly inside the power supply and is secured with a single self-tapping M3 screw. The same cap can be used for both ends; just print it twice. You may need to adjust the cord outlet hole size to accommodate your preferred cords, and you should also take strain-relief measures so that tugging on the cord doesn't pull on the electrical connection. Good options include tying a knot in the leads or using a big glob of adhesive in the hole. I recommend adding lugs to your wires for connecting to the screw terminals and maybe even installing a fuse. Use this power supply at your own risk, but it might be a convenient way to get a quick power supply like I did. A future revision could include a switch or even a fused switch, possibly with an automotive socket. Print Settings Printer: MP Select Mini Rafts: Doesn't Matter Supports: No Resolution: 0.1mm Infill: 35% Notes: Resolution isn't too finicky, so many printers will be okay with 0.2mm settings. I don't have great bed-adhesion, so using a raft has made it much more predictable for me. You may be okay with just a brim. I chamfered inside corners where possible and tapered other lumps to ensure the piece prints well without any supports. At 35% fill, it's pretty good, but you don't want it too spongy. Could go a bit higher if you wish, but this seems a minimum. Design Notes A small note - I used some grooves in the screw-block piece for added rigidity. With a shell thickness of 1.2mm, it seemed to help a bit. It takes the screw and stops you from popping the cap off and exposing nasty electrons. The design idea is that the screw-block seats beside the terminal block, and the lip on the 'top' registers into one of the vents in the metal power supply shield. Most usage stress will be left-right, which is secured with the latching portions. The minimal up-down stress is held by the single screw.