Pocket Doors for Lack Enclosure v2
prusaprinters
<p>Parts to make the front doors on Lack Enclosure v2 slide back into the enclosure once fully opened. Since it's best to leave them open for some filaments such as PLA, I wanted them to not be swinging outward where they could be in the way and/or get easily damaged by being run into.<br><br>This replaces all 4 front corners, the top 2 side middle pieces and all door pieces/hinges from the Lack Enclosure v2.<br><br><strong>I can't seem to make it so the Legacy folder is at the bottom of the list so take notice when picking individual files. </strong>Unless you're printing on a Mini, you probably want the newer files. See 2022-02-10 update below.<br><br>Designed specifically for the full height doors but you could probably just extend the top rails to cover the void if you already have the shorter plexi doors.<br><br>You need 1 of each hinge and 2 of each rail which are just mirrors of each other.<br><br>I added holes to put countersunk screws into the rails if needed however I found that the tolerance on my print was so tight they were unnecessary. YMMV depending on your printer's tuning and the accuracy of your plexi. Personally, I think the holes necessary in the plexi would possibly just cause the plexi to crack so if it comes to that, gluing it may be a better bet.<br><br>The rails also have holes for the original magnets in the handles.<br><br>(Deprecated as of 2022-02-10)<i> The doors still stick out a couple inches because of how the join of the corners to the middle side pieces are designed on the Lack Enclosure. The rails would hit the bolts holding them together if they went any further. In order to get them to push in further, the middle side pieces would need to be shortened while the front corners would need to be extended back a bit to make up for it. I will probably eventually do the work for this but for now, I find that they are out of the way enough.</i><br><br>I've included an image of using snug supports on the tracks with PrusaSlicer 2.4. Easiest to accomplish this with paint on Smart fill mode.<br><br>It's important to have a total of 12 top and bottom layers on the corner pieces to assure the area under the hinge peg is solid. If it has infill, it becomes a significant weak point.<br><br>I printed the corners in PC Blend and you can probably see in the photo where the corners curled up a bit but it doesn't affect the integrity of the enclosure. ABS or PETG should be fine. (I've since reprinted a few pieces in 3dFuel Pro PLA which work great)<br><br>Tolerances for the door swinging shut and closing against each other are intentionally very tight to minimize air gaps. If you find the plexi is scraping on the corner pieces when the door closes, you may need to sand the edge of the plexi a tiny bit to bevel it.<br><br><a href="https://imgur.com/od2aR28">See it in action</a><br><br>2022-02-10: Version 2 has been printed and tested. Updated Top Left Hinge to fix an odd seam issue. Version 2 is now the default fileset and the old ones are under the Legacy folder. If you are printing on a Mini, you're stuck with the Legacy since the new top corners require >180mm print bed. The additional Top Right Hinge - Notched has a slight cutout on the top so that the lid aligner piece can do it's job without spreading the top open too far. This is to fix a design flaw in the Lack Enclosure itself so may be helpful for those who have already built it and are swapping in the pocket doors. If you haven't built it yet, you're probably better off adjusting the position of the lid aligner instead of trusting the original design.<br>Note: If updating from my legacy version, reprinting the bottom 2 hinges is optional. They were minorly tweaked but the main objective doesn't require them.<br><br>2022-01-23: Added files for Version 2.0 Folder. I have NOT printed these to test them yet and probably won't in the near future so use at your own risk. Due to the necessary size of the top corners, this version is not printable on a Mini.<br>These change the depth of the “pocket” so that the doors can slide pretty much all the way in. This requires replacing the original Lack top middle pieces for each side as they had to be made shorter to accommodate the track for the doors. While adjusting that, I also fixed the 5mm oversize of the original pieces so that you should have less gap around the plexi at the top on each side. A few very minor tweaks such as better curved cutout for the outside edge of the plexi to have better clearance when the door swings and possibly better settling of the door when fully open or closed. The intent was to have a small dip in the inside of the door rails so that they'd settle into place on the peg when fully extended but the peg was too chamfered for it to really help and may still not due to it only being 1mm or so deep of a recess.<br>If you do give this version a try, please do let me know if there are any issues and I'll see about updating it.<br> <br>PS: A few people have commented that they have a gap between doors when closed. Note that the hinges are designed to align the doors exactly the same as the original enclosure's design. However, the original enclosure has a lot of tolerance issues and one I have noticed on my build is that the triangle piece on the lid that aligns it as it closes is not well positioned. It actually spreads the top frame open as the lid closes so I end up with a 4-5mm gap at the top while my gap at the bottom is pretty close to 1mm. If you haven't built yet, adjust the positioning of that piece to correct it. If you have already built, you can shave some off the side of that piece to correct it.</p>
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