Plotter Pen Holder For Robo 3D R1 Plus

thingiverse

This is a customized pen holder designed specifically for the Robo 3D R1 Plus printer. Initially, it was intended to be used as a PCB resist plotter, but unfortunately, its accuracy fell short of superior options. However, it can still be utilized for plotting simple artwork for signs or decorations. The pen holder attaches securely to the front lower portion of the Robo 3D R1 Plus extruder assembly, just above the "DO NOT TOUCH" warning sticker. It's essential to note that it may damage the sticker during attachment. To attach the holder, face its inner curved surface towards the extruder carriage and press firmly until it snaps into place. To remove the pen holder, slide it slightly to the right and push forward on the upper portion, making it easy to detach. The riser with a slot is designed to accept a standard stepper motor mount screw, which can be screwed into the unused hole on the extruder motor. Alternatively, the riser provides sufficient stability by pressing against the extruder motor mount bracket. If you experience any issues or damage while using this pen holder, it's likely due to user error and not the device itself. Be cautious and aware of your printer's limitations. The manufacturer is not responsible for any mishaps. Print Settings: Printer Brand: Robo 3D Printer Model: R1 ABS + PLA Model Rafts: Doesn't Matter Supports: Yes Resolution: 0.2mm Infill: 50% Notes: The orientation of the object is designed to optimize print quality, which means that the bracket's inner surface will require support. Additionally, most of the build may need support as well. Feel free to experiment with different print angles, but keep in mind that support removal can be challenging if not done properly. I used PETG filament on my personal copy due to its exceptional strength. However, PLA should also work fine as long as excessive downforce is avoided. I encountered some slight warping on the curved part of the bracket, but it didn't affect functionality. Removing support material from the inside was a bit tricky, and I had to use a spiral cutter bit on a Dremel to clean away the remaining debris. I used Simplify 3D with the following settings: Filament: ESun Black PETG Speed: 60mm/sec Layer Height: 0.2mm Extruder Temp: 225C Hotbed Temp: 100C with a 1/8" aluminum plate taped over my damaged glass Support Material Density: 40% I applied thinned PVA glue to the hotbed for better adhesion. If you're using an aluminum build platform, it's recommended to use a thin raft or brim directly contacting the support material to prevent warping. Other filament plastics may have different results, but PETG can be finicky about bed heat and surface. I strongly advise against printing PETG on 100C heated bare glass as it tends to stick excessively and may damage the glass. Instead, apply a thin coat of PVA glue and run the bed temps very hot. Let the first layer air-drop onto the glue, rather than pressing into the bed, which can cause the filament to roll off. As for my design process, I utilized advanced Elven magic techniques.