Plastic Monstrosity CNC Build

thingiverse

First off, THIS IS A REMIX/MAKE, NOT A NEW DESIGN! I take NO credit for these designs and I am posting this in hopes that others may benefit from my trial and error on the plastic monstrosity design! Note: I have created several different parts that I believe will work better than the original designs. Thank you to Spiffcow and oscarthompson for designing the original and the remix that I used! these parts seem like they're going to be absolutely solid. Note on product links: I use affiliate links for Amazon.Things used:Original: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2471313Remix: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4727159PARTS LIST:5mm to 8mm coupling x1External Stepper driver for NEMA 17 and NEMA 23 x4End stops and E-stop x1Vacuum for dust collection x1JST SM connectors x1JST Crimpers x1Giantarm PETG x4NEMA 23 stepper motors x3NEMA 17 Stepper motor x1GRBL controller (main board) x124v Power supply x110MM wide GT2 timing belt x2M5-0.8 x 75 socket head cap screws 10pcs x2M5-0.8 sliding T-nuts, 50pcs x2M5-0.8 Nuts, 60 pcs x1M5-0.8 x 30 socket head cap screws, 50 pcs x1M5-0.8 nylock nuts, 100 pcs x1GT2 pulley, 20 tooth, 10mm wide, 6.35mm bore 5 pack x1625ZZ bearings, 20 pack x1roller wheels for slotted extrusion, 26 pack x1M5 x 12 socket head cap screws, 100 pack x2M5-0.8 x 25mm socket head cap screws, 50 pack x1608zz bearings, 100 pack x1 (you dont need that many but theyre good to keep around)https://openbuildspartstore.com/c-beam-linear-rail/x1 1500mmx1 250mmhttps://openbuildspartstore.com/8mm-metric-acme-lead-screw/x1 290mmhttps://openbuildspartstore.com/anti-backlash-nut-block-for-8mm-metric-acme-lead-screw/x1You will also need wires.4 conductor 22 awg wire as needed should be fine for everything but the x and y motors4 conductor 18 awg wire as needed for larger stepper motors.PrintingPrint at 50-60 infill. I used Cubic as I have had good results with it. Support as needed, I dont usually print supports for small screw holes, but if its large i will. watch your dimensional accuracy, Some parts so far have been a TIGHT fit. Adjust pressure advance up a bit if you need to for clean corners. Dont forget to mirror one copy of gantry top and gantry bottom in your slicer.Thats it for now. I'll post more as I work on it.Update 1, 1/28/24So as it turns out, I had forgotten some things on the parts list and bought some of the wrong things as well. I have also been looking at the lowrider3 CNC, which I may attempt to build as well at some point and just swap these two out, but for now, we're going ahead with this one as I already have the parts.MINI V wheels, 26 pack x1M5 washers, 1mm thick 100 pack x2You will also need:5/16-18, 3-12" hex head bolts, preferably with only the first inch or so not threaded. x12 (not any good listings on amazon, I bought at lowes for pretty cheap. Go with zinc plated not galvanized.)5/16-18, 1-1/2" hex head bolts, again with only the first half inch or so threaded but it doesn't matter as much. x505/16-18 lock nuts (nylon lock nuts) x 62 or so5/16-18 regular flat washers (not fender washers) x124ish just in case.Update 2, 2/15/24Ok, so after assembling and testing some things, I hit a bit of a snag with a few things.First off, I could not get the Annoytools board to work with the external drivers, so I returned them and ended up ordering an open builds blackbox x32. Tested that and it worked, although weardly the z motor got warmer than the others despite being a smaller moto. More to follow on that one possibly. I also (like one of the other remixes) found that the bearings that guide the belt were too high. There wasn't a version with the bearings moved to the lower gantry, so I made one. you should not need any spacers between the body and the bearings. it might be snug but I have it chamfered to the inner race so there should be no issues with the bearing getting compressed. I haven't printed them yet, but I uploaded both the STL and the fusion 360 file. Sorry for the clutter in it. There is also a longer version of it. I increased the length of the lower gantry part by 75mm and added a third set of bearings. The reason why is that I ordered an 80mm 2.2kW spindle, and it is heavy so I may need them additional support. Don't know yet, we shall see. Also I found an alignment issue with the z axis. The rollers didn't seem to fit without a couple of washers and the second shortest spacers in the files, so I added two washers under each wheel. I thought it was going to work ok, but during assembly, I found out that the lead screw was angled out. So I decided to order a premade linear actuator for it. Sorry, cheating a bit there, but I think I'll be happier with it especially with the additional weight of the spindle. I should be able to post some photos of the table I built as well as additional parts. Also, you'll need either jam nuts or square nuts that are no more than 3mm thick. Waiting on those from amazon which is very frustrating since everything is like a week out.I'll post another update as soon as I have it.Update 3, 2/25/24 DO NOT PRINT the modified gantry bottom pieces that I uploaded. I mis-calculated the bearing holes and they don't touch the EMT rail. Update 4, 3/3/24Ok, we have gotten past that. I modified the design that I had copied to have the correct positions of the bearings. Looks like when I measured the original I didn't select the correct edges/faces to get an accurate reading, so I designed it with the center of the hole for the lower bearings too far away from the EMT, causing the plastic to contact the EMT instead of the bearings making contact. That has been fixed and I plan on uploading the STLs soon. I also have a re-designed x-axis belt holder since I went with some off-the-shelf parts from amazon and openbuilds. I ended up going with two aluminum gantry plates, one on either side of the c-beam, then used an aluminum NEMA 23 mounting plate for the motor instead of the plastic. Unfortunately as of the time I am writing this, I do not have photos of everything, but I will make a point to take some and upload everything this week. Honestly switching to aluminum instead of plastic wasn't that expensive, and I think it'll be more robust. The issue I ran into I mentioned in a previous update about the lead screw being at an angle. I also bought a pre-built Rattmotor 300 mm ball screw linear actuator to replace it. Honestly could have gone with the 200 or maybe even the 100 mm versions. 300mm is the usable length of the actuator, so this thing is huge.I also finished wiring the x and y axis motors and we have motion! Still waiting on some shielded cable from amazon to finish the limit switches. I will update and show when I can.