Pitanarasha - Ender 3 Pitan for Direct Extrusion

thingiverse

So I saw the Pitan and absolutely loved the idea of a printable geared extruder. I gotta admit I was skeptical, but this really works so well! However, it wasn't exactly easy to make work with the Ender 3 fitted with a Hero Me when I wanted it to be direct extrusion, so I set out to make some changes. My goal for this remix was to make it using as many of the parts found on a stock Ender 3 as I could. And I got pretty close Features: - Works with the Ender 3 - Compatible with the Hero Me duct - Positioned above the hotend for a straight path from extruder to hotend - Best used with a pancake motor for low weight - Many of the needed parts can be salvaged from an Ender 3 that has seen upgrades and therefore left spare parts behind - Features remixed direct extrusion adapter that allows for easily taking the extruder off without disassembly Note: This is best printed in ABS or nylon. PLA can work if you only ever print PLA, but if you plan on occasionally printing PETG, ABS or other higher temp filaments or if you use an enclosure in summer, you will need a higher temp resistant filament or it will deform and collapse. List of parts needed: Stock parts needed: - Extruder spring. Any will do, even old bed springs, the weak ones on the E3 are fine for this - The hobbed nut from the extruder(the brass thing with teeth) - The V slot bearing from the extruder(the gray metal wheel that presses filament into the hobbed nut) Non-stock parts needed: - 2x M5 bolts of reasonable length(one needs the head sawn off or you can get a thread with no head) - 1x M5 locking nut to put at the end of the headless thread(this goes in the large gear with glue) - 2x M5 regular nuts(the ones without the nylon locking thing in them) - 4x M5 washers - A spare V slot wheel OR the two bearings you get from it - Some epoxy glue or similar high strength, thick glue - 3x M3 bolts List of modifications: - No more PTFE tube fitting. The guide slides onto the PTFE tube and that is more than plenty when running direct extrusion. - Bearings changed from 695zz to 625z. These are found in the Ender 3 V-slot wheels, one wheel yields 2 bearings if you don't damage them during removal. - Bearing in the tension arm replaced with the V groove bearing used in the stock extruder frame of the Ender 3. It is now held in with an M4 bolt. - Spring tension can now be adjusted. With an M5 bolt, a non-locking M5 nut free on the bolt and a non-locking M5 nut glued on the end, you can turn the bolt to move the glued nut closer to the tension arm, increasing spring tension if needed. - Hook added to one of the frame pieces to hook the extruder motor cable in to anchor it down so it doesn't get stuck in the gears. - Base added that can be screwed on a modified version of Benawhite's "Direct Drive converter". This allows you to make the Ender 3 a direct extrusion system. - Frame is held into the motor with 2 bolts inside the Pitan instead of 4 going all the way through. This allows you to open up the Pitan without taking it off the motor. - Holes to close the Pitan now have modelled M3 threads - Redesigned for use with the hobbed nut that the stock Ender 3 extruder has, but I'm sure you can make it work with a hobbed nut like the original Pitan uses - Spring slot reshaped to work with one of the bed springs the Ender 3 uses from the factory - Gear 2 is now made to fit an M5 threaded rod to serve as the center axle with an M5 nut at the bottom slotting into Gear 2