Pinoc Video/Photo Capture Binoculars

thingiverse

### Pinoc Picture / Video Capture System for Binoculars / Telescopes The full project is here: https://github.com/jdcasey/pinoc This application allows Raspberry Pi single-board computers to be mounted on binoculars or telescopes. It uses the RPi GPIO interface to read input signals from momentary buttons and output status to two LEDs. Pinoc relies on a Raspberry Pi camera module, which wires directly into the board via ribbon cable. It uses the `picamera` Python 2 module to interface with the hardware. ### Associated Hardware #### Raspberry Pis The large binocular system I came up with uses a Raspberry Pi B+ (or probably 2/3) because I had one laying around. The small binocular system uses a Raspberry Pi Zero/Zero W, mainly because it works well with the compact size and is cheap. #### Battery Packs The battery pack these models are designed for is the [PNY T2600](https://www.amazon.com/PowerPack-External-Battery-Micro-Devices/dp/B01708CZXO/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504123217&sr=1-1&keywords=PNY+T2600). It's easy to use and provides a convenient way to supply 5V input for the RPi. #### Solar Filter Film If you're gearing up for solar viewing, you'll need film to protect your optics and eyes. You can get that on Amazon under a heading like [Solar Filter Sheet for Telescopes, Binoculars, and Cameras](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DS7SCBQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1). It usually costs around $20-$30. #### Miscellaneous Non-Printed Hardware * Hot glue is very useful to keep wires out of trouble (avoid short circuits). * Ventilator tubing is useful to line the visor part of the eclipse goggles, where they make contact with your face. * Felt is useful to pad the nose piece for the eclipse goggles. You can usually find remnants at fabric stores. * M3 screws or similar. In the end, I had a bunch of old leftover PC case screws that worked well for putting the different printed parts together. They're about M3 and 3-3.5mm long. ### Tools When working with mechanical/precise printed parts, I've found that acetone polishing doesn't really work well. Instead, I use sandpaper and a set of small files (round, half-round, and flat are useful shapes) to get rid of burrs and achieve high precision. I used OpenSCAD where the geometries are relatively simple or where high precision is important. For example, I used OpenSCAD to achieve tolerances required for press-fit parts while still allowing the model to be parameterized. ### CAD Files The CAD files for this project use two tools: OpenSCAD and FreeCAD. The following CAD files are provided: * `eclipse-goggles.scad` - These are not strictly required for using Pinoc, but can be useful if you're gearing up for an eclipse. * `large-pinocs.scad` - These are used to mount things to large binoculars where the barrel has a taper and aren't a strict conical shape but rather a sort of doubled/overlapped cone shape. It includes a button panel you can drill out and use to mount LEDs/buttons for interacting with the RPi. * `picam-case.scad` - This contains the models for mounting the RPi camera board to the eyepiece of the binoculars. It also contains models of solar filter film caps used to fit on the ends of the binocular optics. * `pinocs-piB.fcstd` - This is a FreeCAD file that contains the plate and battery sleeve to mount a RPi B+/2B/3, along with a battery pack, onto a large binocular cuff (from `large-pinocs.scad`). * `pinocs.FCStd` - Another FreeCAD file, this contains the models necessary to mount a RPi Zero and battery pack to a small, folding binocular system. In the OpenSCAD files above (*.scad), I've commented the individual modules and parameter sets to make them easier to adjust.