Pinhead Bust (Hellraiser)

thingiverse

I've had this idea kicking around in my head for ages, but just never managed to find the time to bring it to life. When MustangDave posted a 3D head scan created by Lee Perry-Smith online, something clicked - that's what inspired me to start working on my project. The original scan lacked any features that I could work with, so I decided to give this model some serious enhancements: adding a realistic eye system and a sleek neckpiece to its rather flat base was right up my alley. It took only a short time to bring this thing together, and I'd say about two or three hours is all you really need to perfect it. I could have pushed for even thinner, more detailed lines in the face if I had the time, but the last thing on my mind when creating a print was precision; I just wanted something that looked great on any printer possible! Another consideration I thought would have taken up valuable hours - digging in those little indentations to secure pins into their exact positions. Of course, it wasn't for me as speed was of utmost importance! That being said, there are literally 100+ needles crammed right inside the poor fellow's skull - and believe it or not these all had to be a 1 inch each when created in an assembly! That's pretty big. Even though they stick out pretty high now you should know, cut them however short your desired look calls for. We tech heads might take some fun details from here. So we can compare, this pin height of the individual head, really equals with how wide of its eye sockets is inside an actual screen image display movie adaptation right there to have it in that shape on all four screens as an end screen or on two different monitors as 4 K's and Ultra High Display Monitor to view this film in 100. That I did to bring those lines to a life in reality, by way of which model of our 3d print model to create them. So they actually are 10-14 inches long with just the width at top level to show their full body as if on a two way video. By creating a bigger frame with 2 mm wide prints all will fall to where desired line should not appear on a screen of course it also adds more stress since filament was unable due the limitation imposed on it that causes print break on larger scales like one I had to cut off because no use other than to just go waste my material away like the old broken parts still being held and made very big and still very little in diameter from what I did try. That was fun. Alright now time for real instructions: 1- Before beginning, we should mention a fact or so you are able to have good infill which will not show split after its finish printing; since print scale makes 15 or so at max high but you do wish have some room at that top point with out them getting cracked in case I may print all inside on small amount so please be careful because your desired outcome isn't like those models to try a few prints which get messed when all is printed and also after they reach max of height before. 1 - For this to look right and prevent break, I had my model create with at least 50 or so percent of infill on inside parts (where needed). As an additinal step it really would not do me much help having NetFAB as you'll understand for now. You're ready to rock.