Pilot Baby - 3D Printable Vintage RC Sports Model Reproduction.

cults3d

Update - 04.06.2019: I've added an aileron wing to my design, and although I haven't printed it yet, it fits perfectly in CAD and should print flawlessly. To attach the ailerons, bend two millimeters of piano wire into torque rods that fit snugly into the slots on the underside of the wing. The new files start with "Aileronwing-" and should be printed at 0.25-0.3 millimeter extrusion thickness, just like the other parts. I used to fly a Pilot Baby decades ago, and it was an absolute blast, even with its heavy 540 car motor and seven-cell sub-C nicads. The only control I had back then was elevator and rudder, but that didn't stop me from having a great time. I decided to design a printable version of the plane using the original plan and keeping its shape as close as possible. I even modeled the ribs and covering on top of the wing. Check out these flight videos: https://youtu.be/3M_5ZInhubw, https://youtu.be/UxittfJNad4 When flying this plane, it's best to keep power on at all times. It doesn't glide well and loses energy quickly in turns. Here are the specs: * Wingspan: 914 millimeters * Length: 683 millimeters (without propeller and spinner) * Weight: 600-750 grams * Center of gravity: 46 millimeters from the leading edge * Elevator throw: six millimeters up, six millimeters down * Rudder throw: twelve millimeters in each direction * Power: 1400-3000 kv motor and four to two lithium-ion battery with a six-inch propeller Check out these components: * Motor: https://www.banggood.com/Racerstar-BR2212-2450KV-2-3S-Brushless-Motor-For-RC-Airplane-p-1085432.html * Battery: https://www.banggood.com/ZOP-Power-11_1V-1800mAh-75C-3S-Lipo-Battery-XT60-Plug-p-1170988.html * Servos: 9g servos Here's the original plan: https://outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=2226 I've designed both rubber band wing attachment holes and a wing for latch attachment, which is easier but less forgiving on bad landings. Use a short length of six millimeter carbon tubing to join the wing halves. Four millimeters rods or tubing can be used to help index the wing sections when gluing them together. This plane needs quite a lot of nose weight with the super light modern motor up front, so a heavy motor can be used (sixty grams+). I've also made noses for different Cox TD and BB engines, but I won't be able to test those out myself as I don't have any engines. It has an integrated servo tray and holes for control rods to poke through, lining up straight to the control surfaces. The control surfaces have integrated control horns. The printable clevis can be used on the end of two millimeter carbon rods to attach it to the tail. Use adjustable link clamps to secure the rods to the servos (https://www.banggood.com/5Pcs-2_1mm-RC-Model-Aircraft-Steering-Gear-Servo-Rudder-Adjust-Device-p-80481.html). The fuselage parts have areas that should be cut away after printing. Fuselage 01 and 02 fit together with short bits of filament to index them as they are glued. Fuselage 02 should have the top printed surface trimmed as well to clean up the stringing that occurs there, and Fuselage 03 fits inside that end of Fuselage 02. Fuselage 04 fits inside the end of Fuselage 03. The two horizontal stabilizer halves should be glued together with a short length of two millimeter rod to index and strengthen the joint. The tail surfaces are replaceable. The tail surfaces should be assembled by first inserting the vertical stabilizer into the fuselage, then slotting the horizontal stabilizer in from behind, and securing it with three M3 countersunk screws. Use CA hinges or your favorite micro hinges to hinge the control surfaces. Landing gear can be bent from two millimeter piano wire or the 3D printable landing gear can be used. This plane flies great as a close replica of the original design, which flew even with my old ultra-heavy gear at around one kilogram weight. It even slope soared at that weight.