Photo Picture Frame

thingiverse

Simple photo frame with a 10 x 15 cm visible area. This is the exact size - if you have a picture that's 10 x 15 cm, consider attaching it to a piece of cardboard first. The frame can be customized by setting default parameters, including: 1) Frame Visible Area Size 2) Frame borders Size 3) Thickness of the frame in the inner perimeter area 4) An angle of the top surface (if the angle is 0, it will be flat) 5) Size of the hanging holes The photo or picture should be glued behind the frame. ----------------------------------------------- Updates ----------------------------------------------- 27/01/2017: A stand model was added to fit into the hanging holes. The stand has not been printed yet. 28/01/2017: The stand was printed without any issues. Pictures are attached for reference. For a permanent use with the stand, it's better to glue it in place. 29/01/2017: Version 4 of the Frame was added. More hanging holes were included - two on the short side and one on the long side. This provides more variations when using the stand or hanging adapter. A rope hanging adapter was also added, which can be inserted into a hole and used to hang the frame with a rope. The v3 Frame will be deleted once v4 is verified. 30/01/2017: The rope adapter was slightly modified. 31/01/2017: The Frame v4 was validated and printed without issues. The v3 Frame has been deleted. 01/02/2017: A hanging adapter for use with a large fastening that doesn't fit into a 5 mm hole was added. 23/02/2017: An STL model for the Frame v4 with a picture size of 10 x 10 cm was added. Additionally, a back panel or picture holder can be used instead of cardboard. To do this, cut the picture to the size of the picture holder and glue it in place. Then, print some picture holder locks (also added in this edit). Print Settings: Printer Brand: Wanhao Printer: Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus Rafts: No Supports: Doesn't Matter Resolution: 0.2 Infill: 30% Notes: To ensure that the hanging holes are deep enough, I used supports during printing. However, it's possible that this issue may occur on other printers with imperfectly leveled printing beds. I've tried printing the frame both with and without a raft, but in both cases, warping occurred. To mitigate this issue, I've added some perforation to the bottom layer of the model to reduce tension while the base layer develops. It's recommended not to use rafts as they may also warp. How I Designed This The model was designed using OpenScad application. The original file is attached and can be modified for other sizes and angles. However, there seems to be an issue with STL files generated by OpenScad - they won't work directly in slicer applications. To fix this, export the STL file from OpenScad, then import it into another 3D editor (I've used 123D) and use the "Convert Mesh to Solid" option before exporting again as an STL file.