
Phaetus TaiChi 2in1out Hotend Mount and FanDuct w/ dual 5015 fans and DDE
prusaprinters
<p>This is an Mount and FanDuct for the Phaetus TaiChi “2in1out" Hotend and it utilizes 2x 5015 fans with direct drive capability.</p><p>It is designed to be used with either an single Bondtech LGX Lite extruder for the primary filament and an secondary bowden OR you can simply use it with dual bowden.</p><p> </p><p>The airflow around the nozzle will be extreme at 100% thanks to the dual 5015 and more than you need for most of the time. Also at 100% it would actually cool down the Heaterblock if you use an weak 30W heater cartridge. I can recommend using a 50W or 60W. But 100% fan power isn't necessary, so use an lower Value and take the 100% as "headroom" for bridging etc.</p><p>The bed leveling is done with an single DC42 IR Sensor (I can highly recommend them).</p><p> </p><h4>Printing and Installation</h4><p>All parts can be printed with no support when you turn them in the slicer in the right way - provided you current setup has good enough part-cooling of course.</p><p>The gantry adapter is only needed when using <a href="https://www.printables.com/de/model/159721-tool-change-system-for-openbuilds-gantry">my own quick change system</a>, ignore if you mount directly to an Creality X-Gantry or similar.</p><ol><li>“Insert” the Taichi into the TaichiDuctBase and add the long M3 screws but don't attach it to your printers X-gantry yet.</li><li>Mount the TaichiDuctLower to the base part. </li><li>If you use it with the LGX Lite then attach the LGX Lite first to the TaichiDuctUpperLGXLite. Ignore this step if you use dual bowden.</li><li>Insert a long enough bowden tube in the Taichi that will connect to the LGX Lite and cut it, so it will sit perfectly connected into the LGX Lite. Install the second bowden tube to the Taichi.<br>If you use dual bowden obviosly simply install both bowden tubes.</li><li>Mount the LGX Lite without motor on the upper part. Ignore this step if you use dual bowden.</li><li>Mount the upper part to the base. Long hex keys will make this a lot easier.</li><li>Install the LGX Lite Motor. Ignore this step if you use dual bowden.</li><li>Install the 5015 fans and the IR sensor.</li><li>Install it on your X-gantry or on my quick change gantry adapter.</li><li>PID tune your hotend at typical fan-speed!!</li><li>Check and change your printers endstops!!</li></ol><p> </p><h4>BOM</h4><ul><li>2x 5015 fans. I can highly recommend Sunon Maglev 6000 RPM fans, the 5000 RPM Versions should be absolutely fine too. </li><li>Most of the screws are a variety of M3 Screws, the 5015 fans needs to be mounted with M4 screws and the IR sensor uses the two M2.5 screws it comes with.</li><li>DC42 IR sensor (or clone)</li><li>PLA or PETG Filament for printing, both should work but I recommend PETG for at least the lower part.</li><li>Bondtech LGX Lite if you want to use it in my primary + secondary configuration. Ignore this if you use dual bowden.</li><li>Optional but recommended: 50W or 60W heater cartridge</li><li>Taichi (of course)</li></ul><p> </p><h4>Filament switching settings</h4><p>I have not investigated into how the automatic filament switching can be done yet. I focused on making sure everything works as intended first. Ill update this section with the Prusa slicer settings once I figured it out reliably.</p><p> </p><h4>Other</h4><p>If you need BLTouch capability please leave a comment I will look into it if there is demand, however as I don't use it i did not design it to use that yet.</p><p> </p><p>In my opinion the 1x LGX Lite + 1x bowden setup is the perfect compromise for most use cases, because 2x direct drive extruders would add unnecessary weight for most of the times when you use only one filament. Only using bowden is inferior in my opinion as good lightweight direct drive extruders can reach better quality and higher speeds thanks to minimal retractions.</p>
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