Peristaltic pump with interchangeable tubes.

thingiverse

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IrjjtMTukPI The pump has been designed and tested with 3/18 inches outer diameter silicone tubes. The encoder used is called "acz11", with a 20mm Height 6mm diameter shaft version. Motor is the "TFK-280SA-22125" motor. Arduino circuit consists of a simple RC filter suggested by the encoder pdf (use 0.1uF capacitor instead of the 0.01uF one) and a L239D H bridge. The Arduino used is the nano, paired with a HC-06 bluetooth module. Everything has been powered by a single 9v battery. Synthetic PTFE oil should be used to lube any part that might need it. Printing bolts in multiples is advised, using z hop in tight clusters to prevent overheating and knocking. All prints have taken into account the elephant foot effect, with no filing needed. If you somehow possess my old reduction gear, nothing can be reused, as they have been modified. 100% infill is recommended for the bolts, which are the weakest link. Use less infill for other parts if desired, but ensure a thick wall (3 minimal). A 0.1mm layer height was used; you may choose to use 0.2mm if desired, as it could work for the 45 degree climbing bolts. A pump code.txt file provides the code used. If read, the parseCommand() function will reveal various commands, such as "MA 500" which moves 50ml of water towards the 'A' side. The code is designed to work exclusively with the "ardudroid" APP on android; however, it is half finished and lacks EEPROM function and calibrated value storage. This means you must use the calibrate command "CA XX" (XX=number of turns) and standardize command "ST XXX" (XXX is 0.1ml of water moved with CA command, measured by graduated cylinder to store turnPerMl constant) every time it's started. Most likely, you just need the pump because you have an encoded gear motor or stepper motor. If not, it's very likely you have a dc motor instead. In many cases, you won't have the same motor or encoder as I do. The .stl has been divided into 4 sections; print only the sections needed. Your breadboard is unlikely to fit into my breadboard holder because chances are the clipping will be in a different shape and I left no room for tolerance. If it's wobbly, that means you didn't use a lock nut on the opposite side of the thread. But if it's too tight, the motor will stall; loosen the lock nut if needed. Print as many lock nuts as required; print according to the fullview reference.stl. If more than one part is needed, it will be noted in the file name. Everything should be able to print without support (even those with small bridges). Some parts have customized support already built in (the axles).