Pergo Robo3D Heat Chamber

thingiverse

Update Feb 10, 2017 I remixed a version 2 here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2100690 Read the info before looking at the new version, I reference the ideas here. Update Nov 15, 16 Thanks to doctorjay for remixing the project so it fits the stock Robo3D versions. Here's the link http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1892658 Update 03 Feb 16 All up and running now, turned out better than I expected! Fit is great and plastic stays in place extremely well. Note that I screwed the back side closed so the back doesn't open. I used those magnets leftover from my 330mm bed upgrade for weights to hold the front plastic down, and they cling to the two screws in the midway position for a "held open" state while working with the hot end. The pic with my finger is the "held open" shot. Start printing, it's now a proven project! Note: When drilling any plastic retaining holes, drill slow to avoid heat and you get the best holes. Extruded plastic balls up when heated, drills well when cool. When cutting new threads, turn in, then out, repeat going farther each time. This avoids plastic cracking or splitting. Recommended color is grey as it will mesh well with the plastic color. I used orange so that final pictures are easy to see. Yes, I'll be dremel cutting off the screws later. Update 29 Jan 16 This worked well for me, but too good - PLA pieces I used for my cable chain slightly melted and created a mess due to uncoupled connectors. Glad I only had 10 PLA pieces and the rest were ABS. Reprinting chain links... argh! But hey, the ABS piece I was printing at the time was WARP-Free and looking fantastic. Removed "this is a work in progress" as I'm happy with results thus far. It's time for remixes or requests for change if you have ideas. Update Printing with a .8mm nozzle rather than a .4mm makes support removal a pain, otherwise printing at 27 worked well. Printing faster causes rounding of corners and bad fit. I loved Mike's Acrylic enclosure but wanted my extended bed more. That left me with no options for a heated chamber until now. With $6.76 in extruded plastic, some clear plastic sheeting, you can have the heated chamber you want even if you used my http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1154745 "True 330mm Y rails upgrade". I'm using 6mil clear plastic from Lowes to put my hot tub in my basement. People with stock beds: If you have a standard stock bed, you can still use this, just shrink the length of the Extenders to shorten. I was making sure this works with stock throughout design time. If someone wants to help, I need the full distance the fence should be to support the fully extended bed. Instead of printing supports, you can cut a piece of wood or dowel and counter drill a pilot hole a tad smaller than 3mm to connect sides together. You MUST print solid (100% infill) for stability AND USE SUPPORTS for all prints except Supports. Printing with a .8mm nozzle had issues with supports as they were kinda hard to remove. Comments, Comments... I want to hear what you think about this.