Pergo Bed Stiffeners

thingiverse

This may work on printers other than Robo3D, R1 or R1 Plus. The 8mm rod(s) are shorter by 24 mm compared to your glass length. ** Warning be cautious as you're working with glass - only make reasonable corrections. Applying too much shim could break the glass. In some cases, the glass costs between $30 and $50.00. When creating my 330mm Y Rails upgrade for the Robo3D (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1154745), I discovered that my bed glass was lower by .02 mm at certain points compared to other areas. It's expected that when auto-leveling a larger printable space, you'll find bigger variations than in smaller print areas. I set up my auto level routine in the firmware to reach out to points 5 mm and 305 mm during Y-area leveling (this is a firmware configuration change). Now for the fix: If you have the standard length rails from your 330mm Y rail upgrade, these new rod holders can be used for this design. Print 2 of these blocks, place one 8mm rod in the holes and slide the slots onto the glass to create a support bar which allows lifting your glass in areas with low spots. I utilized some washers around mine for this shim action. If you don't achieve the right lift to get a perfectly level bed area, print 2 more blocks and use the second 8mm bar you have available. I personally printed my setup using PLA since the heated zone does not reach into the area where the block sits. However, if you upgraded your bed heater to a 300 mm length, consider printing in ABS or nylon due to their higher glass transition temperature. Printer Settings: Printer Brand: Robo 3D Printer: R1 ABS + PLA Model Rafts: No Supports: No Resolution: .3034 Infill: 100% is the best choice