Perfect layer lines and Silent t8x4 for Ender 5 and 5 plus

thingiverse

The test print shown is 20mm x 20mm x 400mm printed on an Ender 5 Plus. This replaces the brass fitting on the z threaded rod. I printed mine in PETG. Needs to be broken in before printing. Eliminates z banding, vibration, and squealing. It's a tight fit on the z rod, and you need to run it up and down the full length of the z build area before using this part. The brass fitting wears out faster and causes issues over time. This is designed to last and maintain accuracy. I recommend printing this part in PETG or ABS. PLA will work, but it will not last as long. I had to do a study for my job on these types of fittings to determine the longevity and maintained quality in a strenuous environment under continuous usage. Brass was the first to fail. Certain plastics actually proved to be more durable and hold better accuracy under heavy stress than soft metals. There are a few reasons a printed part is superior for this application. An anti-backlash nut works similarly, but is largely over-engineered. The printed version creates a similar situation with the layer lines and friction created in within the nut without having multiple parts. This part is also designed to be longer than the typical nut. This is to increase longevity and provide smoother motion. As the part breaks in, it conforms to the threads of the rod basically lubricating itself. Word of warning: if you print this with <60% infill or more than 3 walls, you may experience compression resistance on this part as the mounting bolts compress the layers as the bolt tightens causing more friction than the motor is able to compensate for. I must also warn you of elephant's foot. If the print does not come out perfect including the first few layers, the ability for this part to work will be compromised. Elephant's foot is when the first few layers are compressed and causes an outward formation at the first few layers of the print. This will cause the tolerance of the screw to be too tight, and it will make it so the shaft cannot rotate because of the friction created by the part. Do not attempt to use this part without squaring up your z axis. This includes your linear rails, linear screws, and z axis motors. If your z axis is out of alignment, you're going to have binding issues. I have included a simple gcode script for moving the z axis. Modify this file in a text editor and change the value to match the volume of your z axis. I recommend running this file as many times as needed, or better yet, modify the file to run it more than what is written. Final recommendations: Before I put mine onto my printer, I used a drill, inserted the threaded rod into the chuck, and inserted the rod into the printed part. I then grabbed a pair of slip joint pliers to hang onto the nut and ran it up and down the rod several times. A big suggestion to decrease the amount of time in breaking the nut in would be to put linear resistance on the nut. It will force the grooves to cut into the nut so it can break in faster thus putting less tension on the motor of your printer. Using a .4mm nozzle, use 2 walls and 20-30% infill. There are 2 versions of this part in the thing files. I recommend the thru hole version. I further recommend using 30mm M3 bolts. Put the bolts into the plate and put the M3 nuts on first to lock the bolts into position. Put the T8x4 inplace and use nyloc nuts hold it in place, but do not tighten the nyloc nuts onto the T8x4. The nyloc nuts are there only to keep the T8x4 in place. Enjoy perfect layer lines.