Peopoly Moai FEP VAT - FDM Printed

grabcad

A new revision for the Formlabs Form 1 and Form 1+ is currently being thoroughly tested. This revised model features a design that can be built entirely with off-the-shelf components, eliminating the need for laser-cut parts. FEP Vat for Peopoly Moai and Form 1+: Optimized specifically for printing on an FDM 3D printer. After using this setup in my Form1+ for about a week, I'm pleased to report zero leaks and excellent performance. This design is an iteration of a model originally created by Leonardo Delgado from openmachines.xyz. Note that the STP file was edited on April 11, 2020 to address some issues with the metal plate. The vat is assembled using M3 flat head screws and M3 heat set inserts (I highly recommend using an old tip on your soldering iron to press them in). The design is tailored for the specific parts I had on hand when building it, but I may eventually update it to use more widely available hardware. One key note about the design: the back wall of the vat is thinner than the other walls. Additionally, the parts are not square and will only assemble one way. For now, I'm only uploading STP files; I might add STL files for the printed parts and DXF files for the laser-cut parts at a later date. If you're using the Form1+, you'll need to measure the thickness (from the bottom of the base plate to the top of FEP) once you've assembled the vat. Then, compare that dimension to the original Form1+ PDMS vat's dimensions to find your Z offset for the SD card in your Form1+. Since acrylic has a wide range of thicknesses and your FDM parts will vary depending on how you print them, it would be pointless to post my exact dimensions. For those concerned about putting resin into an FDM printed part, I've been using PLA vats on resin printers for several months with no issues. I chose PLA because it's not soluble in most commonly used solvents and is rigid. Other filament materials may not be ideal for prolonged resin exposure. ABS should be avoided since it does seem to react with most UV resins. It's worth noting that PLA does degrade with UV exposure, so I'll monitor my vats for any long-term effects. However, I don't expect this to be an issue since many plastics suffer from UV degradation, including acrylic, and that hasn't stopped manufacturers from using them in their own commercially available vats. The following materials were used in the construction of this design: - M3 inserts from McMaster-Carr (part number 94180A331) - EZ Lok part # TH-M30-SV should work just as well; I have some on order to test. - Flat head M3 x 0.5mm thread, 10mm length (8mm threaded length, 10mm overall length). McMaster-Carr 91294a130 would be a suitable replacement. - Acrylic plate and tensioner: 3mm thick laser cut cast acrylic (often sold as 1/8 inch or 0.125 inch in the US). - Silicone gasket: 1mm silicone sheet, laser cut. - FEP Film: One sheet, approximately 0.127mm thick, larger than 170mm x 170mm is required. - 3D printed parts: PLA, four 0.45mm perimeters, four top and bottom layers, 30% infill, 0.2mm layer height.