PawxSpec Whoop | microquad racing fpv drone frame

thingiverse

It's really tough to find the FC now. What a shame, because it was so light, 2.2 grams had OSD and could handle 8mm motors (I used 6mm). Attention: Share your favorite ultra lightweight whoop FC! If enough people comment, I'll remake this... The FC I used was a "JHF3 V1.0" with USB port on side. See pictures for how it looked. 20mmX28.75mm and weighs 2.2g. Hard to beat but hard to find :(. FC: http://bit.ly/2LPpdwO Motors: http://bit.ly/2S7v1mq Props: http://bit.ly/2NEP48G FPV Cam: http://bit.ly/2NCEWgM VTX (I don't use included Camera): http://bit.ly/2MKdmSb Rx (rssi on chanel 8): http://bit.ly/2Ca8GQO Battery: http://bit.ly/2LNWswP UV resin fastener: https://amzn.to/2XH2R2S Rubber bands: https://amzn.to/2PVbunw Ticky Tape: https://amzn.to/2PrsY9Y Heat Shrink (for motor protection): https://amzn.to/2C8mds7 Polycarbonate FDM material (Orange): http://bit.ly/2NajMcJ Update: New Motors (OMFG, so good): http://bit.ly/2OmmpFS TIPS to building/printing my quad at my specification: -> Fasten FC with UV resin in parts list above: rigidity of the quad comes from the fastened FC at the corners using the UV resin as shown in the picture. Out of the hundreds of crashes I've had, I have never damaged the FC because I used it to increase rigidity. ...It is easy to remove the FC too for when you need to swap frames. -> Designed for 6MM brushed motors: Newbeedrone GOLD motors are able to provide strong power using betaflight. There's lots of YouTube vids about this. The receiver also sits on top of the FC with just enough sticky foam tape in between to hold it down. You can also put rubber band so that it keeps the receiver snugged as shown in the pictures. -> The short lateral "T" struts that poke out of the FC housing are for the rubberbands. Use two bands. One for the underslung battery, another for keeping the VTX and RX snugged (shown in pictures) -> SECRET to making the frame super light: I use Simplify3D. Message me if you would like the factory file. Essentially, the middle layers are thinner than the rest by reducing the extrusion multiplier. Coast at the end at .2mm distance. I print at .2mm height using a .4 mm nozzle (.48 mm width). Extrusion mutilplier (separate Simplify3D processes) Layer 1: 1 (100%) Layers 2 to 10: .75 (75%) Layers 11 to 17 .62 (62%) Layers 18 to end .73 (73%) -> Polycarbonate is tricky to print with. I use glass bed with lots of ABS slury. Printer is covered and with bed at 90 degC. And fan off. I use the recommended extruder temp by material manufacturer and at 40mm/s. -> To add extra rigidity and durability to the motor sturts or briding struts connecting the ducts at the perimiters, I sometimes use some of the UV resin at the connection points where stresses are high. When you break it, you'll know what I mean lol Again, you don't have to print it like this, you can print and build your own quad however you like. I'm just telling you how I like to print my frame so that its 2.3 grams and strong. :). Enjoy!! https://youtu.be/WAymjJQeIkQ