Password Pump Joystick Version Case

thingiverse

This is a case for the Password Pump V2, Joystick Version, by Dan Murphy. The Password Pump is a Password Manager that holds all the users's credientials within the device, and it will transmit the Username and Password via the computer or tablet's USB port directly to a web login page. The Password Pump is available as a kit or as a fully assembled unit on Tindie, at the Password Pump Store (https://www.tindie.com/stores/passwordpump/), The user credentials are not saved on the computer directly, nor is there any wireless or bluetooth access, making this device safer than keeping the passwords on a database stored directly on the user's computer. In order for me to print this successfully using Simplify3D, I needed to set the Extrusion Width to "Auto" so all the space between the screw holes/standoffs and edge of the case was filled in properly. I printed at 0.2mm layer height. I had success with ABS and with PLA. PLA was easier to print. I suggest printing the "Box" and the "Nub" parts slowly (30mm/s or even 20) so the plastic standoffs / shafts are formed properly. Depends a lot on your printer. The Box and the lid both need to be printed with supports. The box has the USB cable cutout and the countersink holes. The lid has the cone-shaped flange. The supports should be very easy to remove. I've supplied STLs of the "Nubs" that can optionally be slid on to the Joystick handle. L3 should be a little tight depending on your material and your print settings, L4 should be looser, but it's physically wider to make sure it's printable. I'll upload L2, which is a little tighter than L3. ("L" was my "Looseness" setting. It was late at night...) Depending on your specific joystick and the fit of your thumb on the joystick, you might prefer the regular (5mm) or the Short version (4.5mm) nub. The height will affect how well you are able to down-click the joystick. To assemble, run four M2x12mm screws (x10mm might be long enough) up through the bottom, through the board, and affix the board using four M2x10mm female standoffs. Then screw the Rev 2 lid on using M2x5mm screws. See the pictures, it will make more sense. I found it difficult to hold the standoff in tight quarters while using a screwdriver with the other hand, so I came up with a way to hold the standoffs during the process: Use a long M2 screw and nut as a handle to hold it in position during assembly. OR, an M2x20mm M-to-F standoff will work even better as a handle. See the pictures. You want the bottom screws to be tighter than the top ones. BE VERY CAREFUL with the electronics -- I managed to crack the corner of the LCD screen by pressing against it with my thumb during assembly, had to replace it. Colorful language ensued...