Parametric Utility Trailer Library

thingiverse

This is an OpenSCAD script for CNC routing a custom trailer bed and accessories for these affordable utility trailers: http://www.amazon.com/Northern-Industrial-Utility-Trailer-40in/dp/B0000AX3YJ Cut at lvl1.org on their ShopBot. If you don't have a large CNC, check your local hackerspace. Features: Extend front and back independently of trailer measurements. Slots that line up with the trailer rail slots for secure accessory attachment. Solid sides for added strength and protection from dirt. Holed sides for ultimate flexibility with bungees. Plywood hooks for hauling full sheets of plywood. Sides and plywood hooks lock into trailer rails with standard quick release pins: http://www.amazon.com/Koch-4021671-Square-Locking-3-Inch/dp/B005ZCW55G Evenly spaced holes around all edges for bungee use. Countersunk tie downs for ratchet straps: http://www.amazon.com/Grip-822640-Pack-Surface-Mount/dp/B0151R3JBS Holes for motorcycle chocks: http://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Wheel-Scooter-Trailer-MCCH3-5/dp/B00QSQ8G88 Holes above trailer bolts (so the bed lays flat). 3D printable support for front overhang. Holes for running a bike lock through the bed and around a trailer rail. Warnings: Use at your own risk! This has not been fully field tested, and I'm not responsible if you build something poorly that breaks and dumps a load. No DXF files or STL files are or will be included. To build this right, you'll need to take some of your own measurements and be comfortable editing OpenSCAD files. I cleaned up some of the code a bit after cutting my parts. Errors may have been introduced. With any piece of cheap hardware, sizes might change. Don't assume my measurements will match your trailer. Loosen your trailer up some before adding the bed. These things can get slightly skewed and the bed won't fit. The holes above the trailer rail bolts are currently my best guess. I missed both times I cut the bed. Do not cut too deep on the tie down countersinks. I couldn't go truly flush without risking weakening the wood too much. Better yet, place the tie downs above the rails and drill custom holes for them. I still might do this later for peace of mind. If you don't bolt tie downs through the trailer rails, at least use large fender washers to spread the load on the plywood. The motorcycle chock I linked does not have precision parts. Make the quick release work on a scrap piece of wood first, then measure and update the drawing. The pics show too many holes for the motorcycle chock. I've removed the front holes from the drawing. Current layout for tie downs for bikes is not ideal. The side rails have a lip over the center rails. I did not account for this and that's why the edges are slightly curled up. If I were going to redo this, I would either order some thick washers or flip the board and route a groove for the side rails. When this trailer does not have much weight in it, it bounces. A lone toolbox in the back will fly. If I were going to rebuild, I would use 3/4" plywood and count the extra weight as a feature.